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Great Video on Oil Film Stength

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    Posted: 19-April-2025 at 11:58AM
I am sure many of you have see the Rat540 or the Project Farm oil film strength testing.  Well this new video pretty much shows that this test is bunk when it comes to motor oil.  It shows how the oil film test is best used for something like gear oil and is not really applicable to engines and motor oil. 

There is also some interesting information on flat tappet wear. Surprisingly, the new SP grade oils work pretty well. In fact the Castrol that did poorly on the film tested had less cam wear that the older SM rated Valvoline VR-1.  

These videos be Lake Speed Jr are pretty good.  He uses real data to back up his claims and he is a tribologist who has worked in the oil industry for years.  His father is involved with NASCAR.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-April-2025 at 9:19AM
Yes Lake Jr's vids are very informative and science / real world testing based. like he says at the end of this one, he doesn't let industry or 3rd party flimflammery go unchecked. i found it interesting that gear oil viscosity numbers are make-believe to set the products apart from engine oils
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Booyah45828 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-April-2025 at 4:59AM
Yeah Lake is a smart dude. I love that he released this, as I've had numerous salesmen come into the shop toting this machine behind them trying to sell their oil. As he said in the video, those machines do nothing for motor oil, as that situation isn't found in any engine. And as he said, the gear oil viscosity #'s are not the same as motor oil numbers, which is something most don't know.

Lake came up with joe gibbs driven line of oils, which were ahead of their time 20 years ago. My father owned a team of dirt late models and even with a valvoline product sponsorship offered, we used driven. Of all the claims of lower temps, better wear, etc. that I've heard claimed over the years, the driven stuff was the only one that actually backed it up. We actually saw lower oil temps, better wear numbers, and more dyno HP using driven.

I'm sure other brands have developed stuff that is now competitive or better, but my experience with driven made a believer out of me. We used xp5, and then switched to dt40 when it came out, I've actually got a couple cases of dt40 left on the shelf that I'll probably use up in the gts once finished.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-April-2025 at 10:20AM
Driven seems to be great oil! I can't get it at a reasonable price though.  So after I broke in my engine on dino, I have now switched to Amsoil Z-Rod.  It seems to be decent too.

Here is another good video on why the diesel oil is no longer a good option as it had been in the past for flat tappet engines:


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Booyah45828 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-April-2025 at 4:13AM
Define reasonable? 

Wiping a lobe on a flat tappet would more then cover the cost difference. I'm not saying driven would prevent every wiped lobe, as manufacturing errors happen. But I'd be pretty confident saying that driven wasn't the issue if one did flatten. We ran a combo of different zddp and pressure additives with pennzoil conventional 20w50 at the recommendation of a former engine builder. When we switched to our current/final builder he told us you can use all the seasonings you want, but sh!t is still sh1t. We actually talked to Lake at PRI and he echoed the same sentiments. He said there's only so much surface area that's metal on metal in an engine. You don't need the detergents in an oil competing with the other additives(like zddp) that are needed, so it can actually be detrimental to run a diesel oil that has them.

Anyways, we went from requiring mid-season engine rebuilds to not, and kept the same oil change interval(5 nights/500 laps). The extra HP, likely from running 5w40 vs 20w50, was a bonus.

I guess being in Canada, certain things get crazy expensive when crossing the border, some things more then others. But I'd recommend anybody to give driven a good look, as it's pricing is not all that out of line compared to the other boutique oils like amsoil, schaeffers, redline, lucas, etc.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72FordGTS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-April-2025 at 4:21AM
Originally posted by Booyah45828 Booyah45828 wrote:

Define reasonable? 

Wiping a lobe on a flat tappet would more then cover the cost difference. I'm not saying driven would prevent every wiped lobe, as manufacturing errors happen. But I'd be pretty confident saying that driven wasn't the issue if one did flatten. We ran a combo of different zddp and pressure additives with pennzoil conventional 20w50 at the recommendation of a former engine builder. When we switched to our current/final builder he told us you can use all the seasonings you want, but sh!t is still sh1t. We actually talked to Lake at PRI and he echoed the same sentiments. He said there's only so much surface area that's metal on metal in an engine. You don't need the detergents in an oil competing with the other additives(like zddp) that are needed, so it can actually be detrimental to run a diesel oil that has them.

Anyways, we went from requiring mid-season engine rebuilds to not, and kept the same oil change interval(5 nights/500 laps). The extra HP, likely from running 5w40 vs 20w50, was a bonus.

I guess being in Canada, certain things get crazy expensive when crossing the border, some things more then others. But I'd recommend anybody to give driven a good look, as it's pricing is not all that out of line compared to the other boutique oils like amsoil, schaeffers, redline, lucas, etc.


I don't run a flat tappet cam, I have a roller.  I have confidence in Amsoil, although I am sure Driven is just as good and maybe better. TMeyer, did my machine work and short block said even a convetional 10W30 was fine.  Amsoil recommended Z-Rod even with the roller. Amsoil is great for serving us north of the border. I'd try their stuff for sure if they setup dealers up north, but not sure there be a massive difference between Z-Rod and Driven in my engine. 
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