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INFO: Autobody and Paint Q&A |
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 05-February-2012 at 9:18PM |
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As one of our resident Professional AutoBody & Paint Technicians I asked if we could have a section
for bodywork and painting so our members who have little or no experience or even Novice have a place to ask questions and find information about bodywork and paint and can learn about products, techniques and procedures. We have many DIY (Do It Yourself) members who although don't do it professionally as a career have professional quality skills and they as well as myself would be glad to help with any questions you may have So whatever your skill level is,if you have any questions feel free to ask and I as well as the other members will try to answer and explain as best we can so you can understand and learn how to do some of the work yourself which certainly will cut costs on your repairs to your vehicle. How to navigate this thread all procedures I explain the title will be in large bold letters so they are easy to find when browsing through the pages of this thread
Edited by 72 GTS 429 - 29-February-2012 at 12:55PM |
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fordpower ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 02-September-2010 Location: willseyville,ny Status: Offline Points: 1738 |
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sounds like a great idea.
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srwith ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 04-September-2010 Location: North E. FL Status: Offline Points: 468 |
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Hmmmmmm, Glad someone came up with that idea. Who would have thunk it. This should help someone like myself who experance is only with spray can's
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TV 2M8O ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 20-September-2006 Location: Southern Ohio Status: Online Points: 2020 |
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Need to get you one of these to alleviate the finger cramps.... ![]() It REALLY does the trick!! I love mine.... |
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![]() TV 2M8O OUT JOE 1976 Gran Torino S&H season 2-4 Clone Project Blog: http://tv2m8o.blogspot.com/ |
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unlovedford ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 17-December-2010 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 10142 |
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Hahahaha. I have 2 of those. Actually, they really do work.
I have had the finger cramps before (kept alternating different fingers and both hands) and the little arrow indentation on your fingertips. Best 14 dollar paint job around at that time. Ahh, memories. |
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Joe
1972 Mom's Squire Wagon 1972 Torino Wagon 1976 Torino 1968 Cougar XR7-First batch 1972 Torino 460 1989 BroncoII/Jeeps/Titanimous Popeye and Brutus (Rams) |
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TV 2M8O ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 20-September-2006 Location: Southern Ohio Status: Online Points: 2020 |
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Jeff, Thanks for setting this Body Work Forum up... I will DEFINATELY be utilizing it in the upcoming months as I try and tackle the R&R of my drivers side inner rear quarter structure!!!
Look forward to all the insite and tips on how to get PROFESSIONAL results from all our membership for my upcoming repair! Edited by TV 2M8O - 06-February-2012 at 4:06AM |
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![]() TV 2M8O OUT JOE 1976 Gran Torino S&H season 2-4 Clone Project Blog: http://tv2m8o.blogspot.com/ |
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Guests ![]() Guest ![]() |
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also check out the many Project Update threads for photo's of actual repairs
legend onirot aka Malcolm's 73 Gran Torino has some awesome rust repair photo's and even though he is not a professional Autobody Technician by Trade I can tell you this,he certainly has the skill off a Pro when he fabricates those repair patches from scratch with flat sheetmetal and cut's and bends it to shape to replace the pieces missing where he has cut out the rusted metal. There are other skilled members as well like such as Psquare75,Eliteman76,Mule323,Grande Verde,Ron Earp and Yodaforce have done body repairs and or painting on thier cars and these are just some that come to mind and I have seen their progress and work in the Project Update section.I appologize if I didn't mention your name and you have the skillz to do body & paint but I can't lest and mention everyone here but this just shows that there are guys who don't do it Professionally as a career can do professional quality work,so don't be affraid to try it yourself and learn as you might find out that you too might have the talent and didn't even know it was hidden in you till you try. |
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Well as a response to the above spray can handle I will tell you this that Spray Can paints can add up in price to have enough paint to do a panel and it would be better to get a cheap gravity feed Spray gun either off the internet or if you have a local Harbor Frieght store they have inexpesnsive Graity feed spray guns that work well and no need to buy an expensive gun for a single project.
there are other brands on the interent that work well and are inexpensive and even a step up from HF bu don't knock the HF guns as I use one for my primer gun,that way If I forget to clean it out and let some 2 part primer harden in my spraygun i'm not worried if I ruin it as I paid $15 and if I can't clean it out and get it working again I can throw it out and buy a new one cheap. I have however had that happened and just scraped out the harden primer and get as much of the particles out then fill it with thinner and let it soak then finish cleaning it later. still works god to this day.just be sure to clean your equipment when your finished using it so it works properly the next time. anyway my point is you can sometimes buy a pint or quart of inexpensive autopaint cheaper then what it cost you for multiple spray cans of paint.Say your painting a fender for example ust to put some paint on it to protect it till someday you get it painted properly.you might need 3-6 cans to get enough coverage and coats on there and then you have what usually is a cheap enamel paint which later when sanded and a auto paint is applied over top bites into that cheap enamel paint and wrinkles it all up and now you have a nightmare as it all has to be stripped off. so why not save some headaches and buy a cheap Gravity feed spray gun as it doesn't take a huge compressor to use these types of guns as the fluid comes out even without air connected to the gun by pulling the trigger.The air is what atomizes the paint and makes it spray in a fan pattern. Also I don't recommend using the cheap spray can primers to go over your sheetmetal or bodywork on the body as it is lacquer type primer and the automotive Uerethane paints don't tick to it even when sanded,trust me fond this out the hard way on a little dent when I was prepping a vehicle for paint and didn't have time for the auto 2K primer to cure as I need to paint the vehicle and get it done so the paint was cured to deliver the job the next day.guess what I had to keep it another day as when I was spotting in the inside lip on the bottom of the door I had tapped off the outside panel as I didn't want any overspray on the fresh paint and when I removed the masking paper and 2 in masking tape I use the paint peeled off the area where I had used the spray can primer cause it was a lacquer product and used a Basecoat/clearcoat Urethane automotive paint but the paint stuck fine round that area and only peeled off on the spot with the spray can primer.Also I used all the basecoat color to paint the job and only had a tiny bit left to spot in the inside bottom lip which I used.I had no money to go buy more paint the correct factory color so I had to go into my paint cabinet and pull out paints and mix them together and custom tint a color close enough to spot it in so you couldn't tell.Thankfully I'm very good at color matching and can custom tint a color,but you see my point as why I tell you not to use them if at all possible. It's fine to prime and paint small parts on the car with spray can but when it comes to the actual body,save yourself some grief and go get the auto paints and supplies at an autobody paint supplier and do it correctly with the correct products.It might cost a little but if you DIY then you will save on the labor costs which is also what makes taking repairs to a shop expensive not just the paint and materials. I use spray paints all the time detailing out parts under the hood or suspension but when it comes to the sheet metal body part especially the exterior won't use spray can paints. there are specialty paints for the trim and such and even for interior that I will use in spray can form but it is not just cheap enamel or lacquer paint but automotive type put in a spray can for easy use
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GranTorinoSport ![]() Admin Group ![]() ![]() Admin of "The Org" Joined: 20-May-2003 Location: Seattle Status: Offline Points: 2287 |
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Thanks Jeff!
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Scott Eklund
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GTW ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 21-January-2012 Location: SC Status: Offline Points: 5780 |
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This should help me, as I have zero experience with body work and welding.
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Griffin
1973 Gran Torino station wagon 1971 Maverick 2 Door Retired 60s NHRA Anglia |
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pikeapn ![]() Member ![]() Joined: 05-July-2011 Location: Up North, WI Status: Offline Points: 78 |
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Like many others, the only experience I have with painting is using the cheap Wal-Mart spray paint. How hard would it be to do a Kandy paint job like this: http://villainscc.com/Images/SFRandC07/images/RandC48_JPG.jpg
What would the detailed process be for doing a quality job like that? - Andrew
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Kandy Color Paints leave it to professionals,only for experienced painters Custom Paint is a whole other ball game and don't recommend it for a beginner or novice painter as that is experienced professional grade and the candy paint and materials is not cheap so it is better left to someone who has experience with candy paints.Even professional auto painters don't all know how to shoot candy properly, it's not like shooting regular colors and easy to get light and dark shades in it from not applying it evenly or Zebra stripes as we call it with light and dark stripe looking variances in the color. This is one I did and I know what i'm doing so it looks awesome it's a two tone candy fade and the transition is flawless and blends well as many don't know how to do it correct even when they can do one color candy good but there is a secret to doing a fade and I don't give that out for free,that costs money as i'd rather not have alot of people know how as it lessons the competition ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Edited by 72 GTS 429 - 29-February-2012 at 12:51PM |
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Guests ![]() Guest ![]() |
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No problem that is why I requested we add this section so i can give tips to guys without alot of experience to be able to try and do the repairs themselves as the labor can kill you on restorations Now if they live close enough they can learn or pay me to do it,but others further away might not know where to find a gut with my talents so it helps to learn yourself. I have enough experience that I can become an instructor ad actually plan on dropping off my resume to the Vocational Technical School where I learned AutoBody.I wouldn't mind becomin a teacher if the pay was decent as it's easy for me to teach then bust butt to do collision work
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pikeapn ![]() Member ![]() Joined: 05-July-2011 Location: Up North, WI Status: Offline Points: 78 |
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WOW!!!! That Avalanche looks INCREDIBLE! I really want to learn how to do that, but there aren't any auto painting classes anywhere around my area.
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Guests ![]() Guest ![]() |
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thanks,That was my first complete vehicle with candy and a two tone fade to boot.
I had done small stuff like motorcycles and some signs but not a complete vehicle. I have enough custom paint experience to know how to do a fade and enough to know how to apply the candy and tat is what was important.All the other stuff I see go around with candy has stripes or light and dark shades and just looks terrible.I came out great and I was happy that was just done end of last year.
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mule323 ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 12-September-2005 Location: North Carolina Status: Offline Points: 602 |
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Alot of today's urethanes look very close to candy and aren't incredibly difficult to spray. If you're looking for true candy or fades, Jeff is right on the mark, find a pro. They're a mega pain in the butt if you don't know what you're doing. They do look killer though. By the way Jeff, you did do a heck of a job on that Avalanche. Really nice fade. |
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(Steve)
73 G.T.S. Fastback, 351C, C6 |
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Psquare75 ![]() Admin Group ![]() Member of the Stroker Club Joined: 26-November-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 4590 |
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Nice job on carrying the fade around inside the door jambs. No one does that (or wants to pay for it.)
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Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD* 78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1 79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1 'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500 |
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thanks guys I like to do things nice.the truck was painted before with the same paint scheme but it looked horrible in the door jambs as it was barely covered and had light and dark spots along with ton's of fisheyes as they never cleaned the jambs properly. Under the hood was the same way but opted to paint that gloss black as it was not a chromed out show motor so doubt it will get opened at shows and saved on the expensive kustom paint.I did the jambs cause I had to as it was done before but done very poorly and with the Lambo doors it added a nice touch as you could see it all and matched the outside.It's not cheap though and that total cost was $7K for the bodywork and kustom paint job and that was giving the guy a break as I wanted to get some of my work out on the streets as all his friends kandy paint jobs had Zebra stripes and light and dark shades in the paint.
Normally that would have been a $10K build for all the bodywork involved with the huge wheels and the truck was a rebuilt wreck and had to redo most all the previous hack body work to make it somewhat right.
Edited by 72 GTS 429 - 16-February-2012 at 4:57AM |
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Rick had asked in his progress thread about prepping his engine compartment for paint as he is having a new motor built and now it is time to detail the engine compartment as the car recieved
a color change to look like the Gran Torino Movie car and the firewall was not done at the makeover stage. there are various stages of degree you can go and just depends on the end result and how factory concours correct you are looking for but I tend to like to use quality automotive paints as I am a paint and body guy but some like to save money or don't have alot of spray gun experience or the equipment so they opt for the spray can method which can be fine also. Durability will vary depending on what brand you use with that method. Paint type's and tips here I copied some recommendations to his question as others can benefit and find it here easily later.
Edited by 72 GTS 429 - 29-February-2012 at 12:46PM |
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he also asked about primers
Primer type and tips
Edited by 72 GTS 429 - 29-February-2012 at 12:46PM |
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fordpower ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 02-September-2010 Location: willseyville,ny Status: Offline Points: 1738 |
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Ok I drilled out all the welds on the rad support now what do I do with all the holes
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72BlackGTS ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 10-April-2007 Location: Millerton, NY Status: Offline Points: 871 |
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And you did that to accomplish what? Panel replacement? Rust repair?
Short version:
Generally when you remove (drill out) the spot welds, a replacement panel is then inserted to replace a rusted or damaged one and then the holes are welded up solid to secure the old panel to the new panel.
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Ron
1978 LTD II Sport-Green 2003 HD Road King Classic 100th Anniversary |
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well I can't tell you unless you give me more info on what your trying to do
i'm not a mind reader,Need to know what Make model and year of car your working on and what your trying to do to give you proper procedures Photo's are helpful to,to see what your drilling out and why
Edited by 72 GTS 429 - 28-February-2012 at 2:34PM |
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fordpower ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 02-September-2010 Location: willseyville,ny Status: Offline Points: 1738 |
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ok if I can figure out pic again will post I removed a radiator support from parts pinto and damaged one from my good car.
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ok if it's welded in core support your suppose to use a spot weld drill to drill out the spot welds as
you only drill through the first layer of metal leaving the under structure metal solid with no holes. If you used a regular drill bit and through drilled it then your gonna have issues .Purpose is when you put the new piece on there will be holes in the top piece and the back will be solid and you grind the metal around the wholes to clean off the paint for welding,make sure you grind any old welds smooth and use the weld thru primer like explained on the 1st page of the Welding & Rust Repair thread,before putting your new piece on.Follow the instructions I listed and what you do is clamp it in place then fill your holes with weld till the hole is filled solid.That is what is known as a plug weld then grind your welds smooth.If you through drilled both layers,take a piece of copper pipe and flatten the end with a hammer.Using a glove to hold it,hold the flat end against the backside of the hole and then weld your holes shut be filling in the hole with weld/The weld will not stick to the copper and keeps your welding wire from going through the hole as you weld.Grind it smooh and weld thru primer and then you will be ready to attach the new piece with the holes or plug welding and the holes on the other metal will be solid so now the wire will not go trough and jut fill the holes with weld till solid ![]() Edited by 72 GTS 429 - 29-February-2012 at 1:02PM |
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fordpower ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 02-September-2010 Location: willseyville,ny Status: Offline Points: 1738 |
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used the spot weld bit went to far on a few. Copper that's what I need.Ok now to learn to weld.Might post pic its not a torino .
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woodpecker ![]() Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 17-July-2008 Location: Waco,Georgia Status: Offline Points: 36 |
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Hey Jeff,
Good idea getting this thread / topic started. I am one of the DIY's with little experience on body work. One major thing that I'm going to try and tacle this year are those $%^&&^$ rust bubbles under my vinyl top. Some of them are very small and can barely be felt others kinda crunch when you run your hand over them. So I don't know, but I might have to replace a small section of metal in the roof where it is really bad. Luckily the really bad place is in a flat area.
I'm concerned about getting the trim off. Never can seem to figure out how that stuff is put on there. do you have an pointers on removing trim? I don't have any pictures yet but will post some later after I get the top peeled off. I hate to take the top off as I just got the car running good and can now drive it down the street and back. What suggestions do you have for primer? I hear some good stuff about epoxy primers.
A little about my car; 72 GTS, bright red, black vinyl top, sport roof, n code, c6 tran, traction lock, rim blow wheel, factory air, rear window defrost, rallye equip group, laser strip (missing).
It's gonna look ugly for a while.
Thanks,
Jeff
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1972 Gran Torino Sport, fastback, bright red, 429
1924 Ford Model T, Tudor 1977 Lincoln Mark V 1967 Pontiac Grand Prix Convertible 1948 Buick Super Sedanette |
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Winshield and back glass molding removal You slide it under the molding and it hooks the clips, then pry the clip open by rocking the tool onthe triangle or pull slightly to the center to release the clips from the molding but be careful not to snag the edge of the glass with the tool as it will crack the glass. the tools can vary buy this is one design and they are cheap ![]() now for the side quarter i'm not 100% sure but i think the moldings either pry up and have plastic clips or the may have a few T bolt clips also that you need to access from inside the trunk.I know the formal roofs have some T-bolts that have to be removed from inside the trunk. Never did a fastback with vinyl so not sure if they have any bolts from inside or just clips
Edited by 72 GTS 429 - 29-February-2012 at 12:43PM |
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woodpecker ![]() Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 17-July-2008 Location: Waco,Georgia Status: Offline Points: 36 |
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Great information on removal of the moldings. I'm a little more confident about removing them now. Thanks fo the info.
Jeff
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1972 Gran Torino Sport, fastback, bright red, 429
1924 Ford Model T, Tudor 1977 Lincoln Mark V 1967 Pontiac Grand Prix Convertible 1948 Buick Super Sedanette |
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Guests ![]() Guest ![]() |
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Good luck to all with their projects and someone else will have to answer your technical questions as I can no longer do it as I have to be able to edit my own threads and now I can no longer do that as
I don't have the privilege of editing at all and have to make changes or correct typo's so if I cannot edit I will not be doing it at all. Sorry you can thank those who complained about me as now the others have to sufffer as well hopefully another skilled professional or atleast an experienced member can help you with any Paint And Body Technical stuff
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