INFO: Braking Options….Hydroboost

I forgot to add that I was putting that in a 73 Torino.  It had similar elongated holes for the booster on the firewall, but hte one hole was 1/4" off.  I also kept my original pedal brace and had bearings support welded in to hold the new clutch pedal.  

I was thinking the same thing...use the original Lincoln disc brake master cylinder when I convert to disc brakes.  For now I'm using the disc/drum original master.  I'm a little worred about moving the brake pedal booster pin up 5/8"....but I dont have much choice now.  I'm committed and I'm not going to redrill and weld up the firewall to make it line up perfectly.

By any chance does anyone have the pedal ratio from those years Lincolns or the distance from the pivot to the booster pin on the brake pedal?   

I may be fine if I match the lincoln's pedal ratio


PS Nice work!


Edited by BackInBlack - 18-October-2016 at 12:19PM

No rear disc brakes yet.   I was thinking of going either Cobra rear disc setup from mustangsteve.com or Wilwood.   I haven't decided.

Edited by BackInBlack - 18-October-2016 at 11:54AM

John,

mlachance112785 wrote: This is the only good picture I was able to find. This is the Mark V brake pedal.

aquartlow wrote: John,  From what I have found, searching both many JY's and internet sites, the 75-79 Mark IV's and V's use the same rotors, calipers and wheel bearings. IIRC, the '72-'79 Lincoln axle housings will bolt right up to '73-'79 intermediates. The '72 Mark V's still had drums and the '73-'74's had different wheel bearings than the later units, 73's had some peculiarities and the 74's were kind of a transitional year for the Mark's brake system. The '72 Mark is/was 5 on 4.5" bolt circle, the later Mark's are 5 on 5" BC. Hope this is helpful.

Some/many 73-76 Mark IV/Thunderbirds  use a 9 3/8" rear end instead of a 9". Slightly bigger ring gear, 31 spline axle and tighter tolerances to make the ABS work without brake shudder or breaking R/P gears (backlash issue w/electromechanical antilock).

well the reason i asked about the mark 5's is i may have located one in a semi-local yard, got a line on possibly a 76 mark 4 rearend...third hand info but i should know more after 8pm tonight the friend of a friend is going to contact the person that allegedly has it---  story is it's at an elderly lady's place near the coast her late husband had it all rebuilt but never got it put back in the car before he passed.
 so if that don't work out i'll look into the mark 5 one if it's still there, just want to do my homework so i don't buy something that isn't going to work!!! done that too many times in my life

i'm not wanting to buy the whole car! i was told the rearend was out--never got put back in! hopefully i'll know more in about an hour

BackInBlack wrote: mlachance112785 wrote: This is the only good picture I was able to find. This is the Mark V brake pedal. This is helpful.  Thanks.   This looks like the pin is closer to the pivot than the 73 pedal.   Looks like I'll be OK with raising the pin on the brake pedal to align correctly with the booster. -John

John,

Edited by aquartlow - 21-October-2016 at 12:20AM

Should bolt right up, and your pumpkin should bolt right in.

Correction...not threaded rod....there is a cup in the hydroboost like the one found in the master cylinder.   I measured combined length of 3.6in. So 3.5in rod. I guess I'll have to make it....can't seem find an easy replacement.

This is the rod that sits between the vacuum booster and the master cylinder.

John,

californiajohnny wrote: The end of that rod with the ball end adjusts, hold the splined part and turn the hex ball. The master cylinders should be the same depth between the torino vacuum and the lincoln HB the disc/disc master just has a bigger dia. Bore

That's what I thought till I started putting it together. ....they are different. Nweds a ball end on both ends and looks like there is a special washer that keeps it centered while you assemble it.

Yeah its not the master cylinder....
It's one of differences between the hydroboost vs the vacuum booster. Most people pulled all the parts from a bone yard car.   I'm piecing it together...no good salvage yards near me.   I've tried. Typically have 1990s and newer.