INFO: Rear Window Seal for Fastback

well I looked at my gasket on my 72 GTS and it is in fact blue. I am switching to a black interior so there is no big deal for me as I want black and my gasket is split on both sides. I will worry about this down the road and hopefully by then they will have the problem resolved.
I never knew they had colored gaskets as my first 73 formal had blacinterior as well as the 73 formal I am parting out and the one on my 72 is kinda dark so I never noticed it was blue to I looked closer.
I really don't think it would matter much on cars with other colored interiors as you only see about an inch of gasket around the glass from the inside and most all other manufactures used Black gaskets as I am not aware of any that had colored one like Ford. Did alot of MOPAR restorations and they all had black gaskets.Guess back then Ford was trying to color coordinate everything to match.

Edited by 73 ProStreetTorino - 26-July-2011 at 6:44AM

73 ProStreetTorino wrote: Well if they won't physically go out in the wharehouse open the box and check before sending it they won't correct the problem if the part numbers are wrong. So call and see if they can check both seals and send you which ever one is bigger

I asked them to do just that. And, I got another formal roof seal.

I'll call them today and return it. Then I'll wait for AutoKrafters to get some seals.

Ron

Ron Earp wrote: Auto Krafters seems to say they can't get a fastback seal.

Has anyone contacted Dennis Carpenter's directly, or are they wholesale only?

Dennis Carpenter is the manufacturer of the weatherstripping and you can buy direct from him. He sells other parts too but his main business is Ford weatherstripping & Cushman parts



Edited by whifty - 27-July-2011 at 3:57PM

Not to get off track, but DC did at one time have the only source for factory shortbox Ford sheetmetal for F series trucks.

Chris-

GAHH....Dearborn (Eckler) shipped me the WRONG seal, it's for a coupe for sure.  Way too small.  Like everyone else here.  Recurring theme?  Looks like they haven't fixed their problem yet  

Well, our '73 rear window does not leak and the gasket looks good, but we will be pulling it out once the restoration begins. I'll keep a close eye on this thread and grab the correct seal when someone finds a good source. Thanks!

For what it's worth, I called Dearborn (Eckler's) and told them the deal and that our GTS.Org members are experiencing the same issue of mil-labelled FB window seals.

OK, no stock, but they are getting some in early next week.  

LOL...Chris, good news.

what kind of help do you need 911 would be faster

Ok,ok,ok! Rear window went into Torino Beast in about an hour. After 24 hours of thinking
Not so bad. Here is what I did:
1) Thoroughly cleaned then trial fitted rubber around window. Put window in sun to soften up rubber
2) Pulled rubber mostly off of window lip and put glazing compound around seal on the OUTSIDE near the edge of the window (so it wouldn't show around rubber seal when I put it back on, but will hold out water;
3) Cleaned ridge on the body near bottom of window with denatured alcohol and mounted foam tape
4) Used a lot of WD-40 in lip in between where metal body would sit, and tied rope so it is centered at the bottom of the window
5) Slid window into position, pushing it upward as much as possible. There is a narrow strip of metal that is exposed (right next to the foam) that I put a bead of window seal on to insure no water would get in (I HOPE), then used cloth-wrapped flat-edge screwdriver to push lower gasket tabs down into passenger compartment, then pushed window AWAY from edge. This gave me the gap I needed to slide tube applicator in and under top of seal;
6) I had my lovely assistant (wife) help me pull the rope, SLOWLY pulling rope INWARD and DOWN toward center of tray shelf. This gets the gasket to seat properly on the metal pinch weld. While she was doing that, I was applying the adhesive, RIGHT BEHIND where she was pulling the rope, so as the gasket was falling into place the glue was being applied
7) worked to the top 1/2 of the window, then stopped and re-started at the bottom of the passenger side, first pushing in the rubber tab at the bottom of the seal. Make sure you shift the window towards the driver's side (about a 1/4" works), so you can slip the applicator tip in and under the seal again;
8) Worked towards center, top of window, following closely behind rope (again) until the seal was at the middle, making sure to stay right behind the rope so the seal wouldn't close before I put in the sealer;
9) re-centered the window by pushing it around until all gape were pretty equal


Sounds more complicated than it is, I think that thinking it through for a day really helped. Letting it set up for a couple of days then I will water test it (Fingers crossed!), but the sealer is poking out from the rubber all around, and it looks nice and uniform, I hope this helps others in their quest for a new window seal!!!!   Here are some pics...




Here is a pic of (roughly) where I tied the 1/4 nylon rope, working it in between the lips of the seal (after WD-40-ing inside the 2 lips. Rope goes all around the window and is tied off on the inside of the window so it can be pulled inward. The upper right hand corner of the window molding is fine, it's just a reflection


Oh, I also used painter's tape to hold defrost cables in place so they wouldn't get in the way or stressed on the solder points


Finally, here is the window installed. I have all the harnesses I need (THANK YOU ALAN for all the help at the junkyard in Maine the other day, I needed missing a 3' piece of defrost cable & connector, so we went there together and found one!



Edited by 72 GTS 429 - 12-November-2011 at 8:41AM