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Anderslober ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 30-July-2019 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 763 |
![]() Posted: 30-August-2019 at 7:19PM |
Hello Forum.....do 351 clevelands/cj`s use `special` thermostats?
Which thermostat will do? Robertshaw333 high flow......?Tridon High flow? Others...? Any info is good....thanks....
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72FordGTS ![]() Admin Group ![]() ![]() GTS.org Admin Joined: 06-September-2005 Location: Ontario, Canada Status: Offline Points: 5613 |
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The 351C needs a thermostat with the little "hat" at the bottom to block the bypass. Often times retailers will list a 351W one for a 351C. You can look up a thermostat for a 1972 400 and it will usually be correct.
Or better yet, get a highflow one from Tim Meyer: |
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Vince
1972 Ford GTS Sportsroof - Survivor, One Family car GTS.org Admin |
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Anderslober ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 30-July-2019 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 763 |
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Those 2 examples look very different. Both work..?
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72FordGTS ![]() Admin Group ![]() ![]() GTS.org Admin Joined: 06-September-2005 Location: Ontario, Canada Status: Offline Points: 5613 |
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Yes, the bottom one is a high flow which is why it looks so different. But it is also much more expensive.
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Vince
1972 Ford GTS Sportsroof - Survivor, One Family car GTS.org Admin |
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Rockatansky ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 30-July-2010 Location: On The Road Status: Offline Points: 5904 |
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i've heard the 'hat' can be removed from a correct thermo and installed onto a Windsor, generic / chevy style thermo and it becomes the Robertshaw 333 series. the only difference between the Windsor and Cleveland thermos from Robertshaw was the presence of the bypass restrictor hat installed onto the temp sensor bulb. other than that the 2 thermos are identical. supposedly the tooling for making the hats was worn out or damaged and Tim Meyer www.tmeyerinc.com bought the tooling, had it repaired and is having some outfit producing correct 333 style thermos available new in the box (NIB) but out of stock for the near & distant future. FWIW you can source correct thermos from Rockauto for under $5, search under 351 cubic inch and make sure you specify Q code for the VIN and look at the pic if it's available. this will get you the correct Cleveland specific thermo, i don't trust their listings for 400. example look at RT351, it doesn't have the hat yet they're spec'ing it for a 400 which also uses the same internal bypass system as the 351C. all the listings have been corrupted by data entry incompetents that knew nothing of the items they were uploading into the system when they went from actual paper books to computer. it'll never be right again ![]() custom made hats and restrictor plates are available from ebay seller neonfiddler but not cheap. Edited by Rockatansky - 31-August-2019 at 5:28AM |
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72 GT Ute
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Anderslober ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 30-July-2019 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 763 |
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Great info..thanks. Over on Rockauto...no `Q` code.....but `4BBL`.......same?
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Rockatansky ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 30-July-2010 Location: On The Road Status: Offline Points: 5904 |
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i forgot to mention Q code only 1971.5 - 1974, from 1970 - 1971.5 it was M code i usually look up for 1972 to avoid the mid-year break but M code should be 351C specific and correct also 4bbl leaves open the possibility of getting a Windsor stat, there were some 351W-4V's H code can be a Cleveland, Windsor or 351M depending upon model year, high likelyhood of getting the wrong stat
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72 GT Ute
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Anderslober ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 30-July-2019 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 763 |
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Thanks...great!...found it now! In 73..no `Q` code....hehe....one has to be sharp and pay attention!
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72FordGTS ![]() Admin Group ![]() ![]() GTS.org Admin Joined: 06-September-2005 Location: Ontario, Canada Status: Offline Points: 5613 |
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I missed that RT351, but most of the other thermostats appear to be correct. I just figured the 400 listing would be easier than muddling through the 351 listings. But in guess you are right, the catalogs are all so messed up you can't rely on them. Here is the info from Ford on the bypass: ![]() More information at this link on using the proper bypass, see figure 1 and 2: Here are a couple of pics on thermostats. You can clearly see the brass hat on the Robert Shaw high flow style thermostat. ![]() Below is a traditional style thermostat. The brass hat is harder to see, but you can see it if you look at the bottom of the thermostat (the brass ring around the copper button in the center): ![]() Below are some shots of an older one I have on my work bench, and you can see the "hat" at the bottom: ![]() ![]() Below is a 351W style Thermostat - look closely to see the difference. Note the open area around the bottom brass button area in the center of the thermostat. This will not block the coolant bypass because there is no hat to fit in the bypass hole. ![]() I think the most important thing is that if you order a thermostat for a 351C/351M/400, you need to verify the hat is in place on the thermostat. Not all the Rock Auto photos show the bottom, but several do. Or if you pick up from a local parts store, just check it before you buy it. For future reference, these ones are known to be correct:
Edited by 72FordGTS - 14-March-2020 at 12:06PM |
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Vince
1972 Ford GTS Sportsroof - Survivor, One Family car GTS.org Admin |
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californiajohnny ![]() Moderator Group ![]() ![]() Joined: 05-October-2013 Location: winlock, wa Status: Offline Points: 14560 |
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what about the motorcraft RT 1167 last listing in that link it looks like the only one that has a plate at the bottom? the rest dont, is that the area that needs blocked?
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JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE 74 VETTE CUSTOM 90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED 77 CELICA CUSTOM 75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED 79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED 75 VEGA V6 5 SPD 70 CHEV C10 P/U 68 MUSTANG FB CONVERSION |
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Rockatansky ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 30-July-2010 Location: On The Road Status: Offline Points: 5904 |
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no telling where that freak belongs ![]() from the listed applications i'd scratch it off the list most ricky ticky click on the highlighted part number -------------------------------- there sure enough was a Q code in 73 and 74, that's what i mean about the listings being fubar'd, yeah we just have to be smarter than the confuser in front of us ![]() here's a great explanation of how the system works IDK why sometimes my links work and sometimes they don't?
Edited by 72FordGTS - 01-September-2019 at 3:35PM |
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72 GT Ute
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Rockatansky ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: 30-July-2010 Location: On The Road Status: Offline Points: 5904 |
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a couple pics of the restrictor orifices this is the 351C pressed in brass insert, many times it's been removed by a machine shop or somebody trying to 'fix' an overheating problem. ![]() and the integral cast in 351M / 400 restrictor orifice, works the same way as the pressed in brass insert ![]() there are also aftermarket 'block-off' restrictor plates that have only a small air bleed hole that allow the use of a generic style stat. before installing one of these you should really make sure you understand how the system works and that there is a coolant flow path while the stat is closed or you'll create a condition that causes hot spots in the heads and risk gasket failure or worse. ![]() here's Tim Meyer's Trackboss restrictor plate, should retrofit into all factory blocks if you need a replacement ![]() one more time ![]() |
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72 GT Ute
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Anderslober ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 30-July-2019 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 763 |
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Fantastic! Amazing information!
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jhggtsf ![]() Member ![]() ![]() Joined: 16-January-2016 Location: Metro Detroit Status: Offline Points: 140 |
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Well, this was a timely thread...
I've had my car with the 351c for about a month and it didn't seem quite right despite having a large aftermarket radiator. So, while I had the coolant drained to replace the coolant temp sender for the gauge I checked the thermostat as well. Sure enough, no "hat": ![]() I replaced it with the Stant 13469 and the cooling system seems to be working much better now. Thanks to all who chimed in!
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Joe
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SeattleJay ![]() Member ![]() Joined: 07-October-2012 Location: Seattle, WA Status: Offline Points: 134 |
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[QUOTE=72FordGTS][QUOTE=Rockatansky]
![]() This is the only style thermostat that should be used. The other hat designs do not flow enough coolant when open and cause the coolant path to continue to circulate in the block. The shaw design addresses the flow issue with the huge top opening allowing coolant from the radiator top hose to easily be pulled into the block. Having the lower hat to block the plate is a must but the big issue with this block is flow. The shaw thermostat was in the car from ford. If you look at the top of the others you can see how small the opening is compared to the shaw design. The Robertshaw 330 series looks like the 333 series from the top, but
flip it over & they're not the same. The 330 series is the universal
thermostat that fits small block Fords, small block Chevys and small
block Mopars. That's also one way to determine what Mr Gasket & others are selling ... search which motors the thermostat fits. The 333 series fits 351C, 351M and 400 only. And a thermostat that fits 289/302/351 Fords, small block Chevys or small block Mopars will not work properly in a Cleveland. Ford has used the Robertshaw high flow thermostat in many applications since the 1960s, and I believe they still use it today. They all look the same from the top, but only the one designed for the 351C has the little 11/16" flanged button on the bottom. Its a small subtle difference that many people don't understand. This thermostat is unique to the 335 series motors (351C, 351M, 400) and no other motor uses it. Even Ford has sold the wrong thermostat over the counter in the 1970s! They actually boxed the wrong thermostat in the box of the right part number. Check out techincal service bulletin number 9, page 11. My advice is to use the 333-192 thermostat. The original 351C thermostats were 192 degree thermostats. The above info is from George Pence on the Pantera forum and helps to select the correct thermostat. I run the 333-192. The reason for the 192 degree is the 335 series tends to collect condensation under the intake at 180 degrees and running around 192 clears that issue up. Hope this helps clear things up, it helped me out as I had the hat style small opening in before and it made a big difference in cooling stability in any situation when I switched to the 333-192 on my Cleveland.
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