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Mark VIII electric fan install.

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72RogerGT View Drop Down
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    Posted: 19-January-2015 at 4:52PM
Hi guys I have been looking and researching for a good and reliable fan controller I have been looking at a derale variable speed controller yet it is rated at 70 amps what do you guys use or recommend me to use. Thanks in advance. Roger.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-January-2015 at 5:28PM
grab the one from the car?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bata747-8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19-January-2015 at 6:06PM
I deigned and built my own. If you are handy electrically, I'd be happy to send you a schematic of it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aquartlow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-January-2015 at 12:47AM
Make sure the relay(s)/electrical system can handle the 80amp+ start-up spike the Mark VIII fan has. I measured a Mark VIII fan I have and the start-up current using a DC current meter, it pulled 86amps at start-up, uses 32amps continuously. When I installed my dual electric cooling fans, I used my Derale unit's plug-in 35 amp relays to trigger larger 70amp relays, never had an issue but did require some additional wiring.
www.supermotors.net/22468
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72RogerGT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-January-2015 at 4:42AM
Bata747 I would appreciate it if you could Send me your schematics. Todd wat derale controller did you use and how did you wire the 70 amp relays.
Thanks. Roger
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GranTorinoSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-January-2015 at 6:27AM
This is an early version of the control circuit I designed. It uses a count timer with a delay-on-break to signal the car is off and to keep the fan running for a specified amount of time. Further, the fan I have is a dual fan, so to divide the overall fan load I used two 40A relays (one for each fan, wired separately). I placed a diode in the circuit to prevent run-on or feedback when the timer is counting and engaged.

Further, control is achieved through two sources - a manual switch than can force on (but can not force off) and a 195F switch for coolant temp.

Upgrades I was going to install was AC actuation (when I add AC) and a possible ability to force the system OFF.

This system will turn on anytime the car is on AND there is manual selection OR 195F+ temp. So the count timer for when the car is OFF will only run the fans IF there is demand for fans. I think I have the timer set to run 30-40 seconds after the car is shut off.

Works quite well. I placed it all into a little project box and have it tucked behind the battery. There are also dual circuit breakers for both fan circuits which is not depicted here.

This is the timer I used for my circuit:

http://www.ssac.com/product.php?pid=671&catid=55




Edited by GranTorinoSport - 20-January-2015 at 6:28AM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aquartlow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-January-2015 at 6:36AM
Originally posted by 72RogerGT 72RogerGT wrote:

Bata747 I would appreciate it if you could Send me your schematics. Todd wat derale controller did you use and how did you wire the 70 amp relays.
Thanks. Roger
 
Roger,
 Here are the pieces I used for my dual fan install:
The Derale adjustable fan controllers aren't rated for anything higher than 25amp continuous, but they are adjustable and can be operated by either the supplied screw-in sensor or can be wired to the A/C compressor's 12v clutch engagement source or this same wire can be used as a manual override to bypass the temp sensor all together(basically a failsafe).  
 
I picked these 70amp relays w/mounting tabs out of a Chrysler product while on a junkyard trip, at a $1 each, they were hard to pass up.
 
The 70amp relays have much larger terminals for the battery and load connections and are copper plated. I used the negative trigger from the Derale units to ground the "signal" side of the relay. Basically these larger relays operate/wire up exactly like a spst Bosch relay.
 #85 would receive the (-) trigger from the Derale unit. #86 would receive 12v when ignition is on. #30 goes to high amperage 12v fuse(I used a 100amp fuse, overkill I know, but absolutely no problems so far) and #87 goes to positive side of electric fan motor.
 
This is a dual electric fan assembly out of a '96 Ford Windstar, even though it has two fans it fits my big block powered Ranchero much better than the Mark VIII single fan(wouldn't fit without major mods to core support).
 
The "shroud" required minor trimming(inlet/outlet rad hoses and trans cooler lines) and a couple of tabs fabbed up/attached to the bottom of the assembly to locate them in the core support. The larger Windstar fan motor was replaced with a Mark VIII two speed fan and wired to operate in high speed only. My Ranchero runs on the larger fan 80% of the time, the only time the smaller 2nd fan runs is during the summer or in heavy traffic. 
 
Sorry for the long reply, hopefully it will help. Todd
www.supermotors.net/22468
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72RogerGT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-January-2015 at 6:58AM
Scott thanks for your diagram but I am trying to keep from doing to do much wiring although the sound of a timer sounds pretty good since the Arizona heat does not help much in cooling down the engine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72RogerGT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-January-2015 at 7:06AM
Todd I have the Mark 8 fan which is hard to find a controller for. I have been looking at doing the same setup you have done however I was planning on using this controller Derale 16795 since it can take up to 65 amps and wiring a 70 amp relay in order to keep everything from overheating. Would this be a good idea? Sorry never have done anything like this before and I have read several forums and no one really explains in detail. Would the pwm controller benefit me or would it work the same way as any other relay kit.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aquartlow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-January-2015 at 7:39AM
I am OK with the questions, sometimes the only way to learn is to ask. Hopefully I can answer back correctly Ouch. I have heard a "soft-start" PWM controller is best for the start-up amperage hungry Mark VIII fan, although I have had ZERO issues with what I am using. The 65 amp relay rating of your controller might be good enough, but the 70 amp relay would be better. If a larger relay is needed/wanted this will definitely fit the bill (this site has MANY good deals)
 
Whatever relay you choose make absolutely sure it is rated for continuous duty.
www.supermotors.net/22468
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GranTorinoSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-January-2015 at 8:13AM
Originally posted by 72RogerGT 72RogerGT wrote:

Scott thanks for your diagram but I am trying to keep from doing to do much wiring although the sound of a timer sounds pretty good since the Arizona heat does not help much in cooling down the engine.


I did some hunting, and I just could not find any pre-made setup that would do what I wanted it to do, along with the future expansion capabilities. There is a controller by Flex-a-Lite, P/N 31173 or similar. Here is a link to it:

https://www.flex-a-lite.com/accessories/electric-fan-controllers/flex-a-lite-quick-start-variable-speed-controller-with-thread-in-temperature-sensor.html

So, I just used a white board and designed my own. I ended up with a few revisions to it (the final is a little different than what is seen here, I'll dig it up if I can and post it). Plus I have some expandability on it, a little redundancy and it will handle the power with no worries. I carry a spare standard relay (just like I do a distributor module, etc). The time on shut down is adjustable, and with a very good battery, even 60 seconds of run-on is not a huge issue.

A general comment about the Mark VIII fan: If you have a big block, you will find fitment of the fan very difficult. The photos of successful individuals I have seen (Mark Lachance is one of them) I notice a thinner style radiator (like a 2-core) and some serious finagling. That is why I went with a dual fan because the water pump snout/pulley will not interfere because it is between 2 fans.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aquartlow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-January-2015 at 8:26AM
Originally posted by GranTorinoSport GranTorinoSport wrote:

Originally posted by 72RogerGT 72RogerGT wrote:

Scott thanks for your diagram but I am trying to keep from doing to do much wiring although the sound of a timer sounds pretty good since the Arizona heat does not help much in cooling down the engine.


I did some hunting, and I just could not find any pre-made setup that would do what I wanted it to do, along with the future expansion capabilities. There is a controller by Flex-a-Lite, P/N 31173 or similar. Here is a link to it:

https://www.flex-a-lite.com/accessories/electric-fan-controllers/flex-a-lite-quick-start-variable-speed-controller-with-thread-in-temperature-sensor.html



A general comment about the Mark VIII fan: If you have a big block, you will find fitment of the fan very difficult. The photos of successful individuals I have seen (Mark Lachance is one of them) I notice a thinner style radiator (like a 2-core) and some serious finagling. That is why I went with a dual fan because the water pump snout/pulley will not interfere because it is between 2 fans.
 
X2 ^^. I run a 3 core all aluminum and I would have had to break out the sawzall & welder to fit the Mark VIII fan, no dice! Even the "extra" room the dual fans give, it's a tight fit.
 
I really need to update my engine pics, lots of changes Embarrassed.
 
Scott, good reference on the diode between the + & - fan terminals Thumbs Up, keeps the fan motor from becoming an electrical generator (back-feeding the vehicle's electrical system when the controller/relay isn't in use-sending power to the fan). I did the same using the large factory Ford diodes from a Aerostar van(EZ connect with it's 1/4" spade terminals).  
www.supermotors.net/22468
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75GranMan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-January-2015 at 1:55PM
What ever you use don't use the CV fan controller.. There failure rate is unreal.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72 RS 351 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-January-2015 at 2:23PM
The high powered fans are best controlled by a PWM unit, because those do not allow the big current at start up.

I have a DC fan controller on my 99 Explorer, and for about 50k miles it was flawless(the trans went out in 2012).

There are a few PWM controllers, but do make sure the fan will fit before you commit to things. The DC unit is about the best internally, they are well made internally and do what they are supposed to. I don't like the tiny fragile power posts, they are about a #10 size and made of brass, easily twisted off when installing and not being super careful.

The DC units are made by the same one man/owner as far as I know, Brian is the name, and he asks for a lead time. I think the two I bought each came in about a week or so. I love how they operate, when the fan comes on it starts so smoothly that if you had a hand of finger in the fan, it would not hurt you. If the fan motor is quiet(doesn't whine etc), you will not hear it much at all because it usually will never need high rpm's. They do make higher capacity versions, to run more items etc, prices used to be around $110+.


Edited by 72 RS 351 - 20-January-2015 at 2:23PM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bata747-8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-January-2015 at 2:35PM
Originally posted by 72 RS 351 72 RS 351 wrote:

The high powered fans are best controlled by a PWM unit, because those do not allow the big current at start up.

I have a DC fan controller on my 99 Explorer, and for about 50k miles it was flawless(the trans went out in 2012).

There are a few PWM controllers, but do make sure the fan will fit before you commit to things. The DC unit is about the best internally, they are well made internally and do what they are supposed to. I don't like the tiny fragile power posts, they are about a #10 size and made of brass, easily twisted off when installing and not being super careful.

The DC units are made by the same one man/owner as far as I know, Brian is the name, and he asks for a lead time. I think the two I bought each came in about a week or so. I love how they operate, when the fan comes on it starts so smoothly that if you had a hand of finger in the fan, it would not hurt you. If the fan motor is quiet(doesn't whine etc), you will not hear it much at all because it usually will never need high rpm's. They do make higher capacity versions, to run more items etc, prices used to be around $110+.



Don I think I am missing an acronym reference. I of course know what PWM is - pulse width modulated, but the DC part has me lost. Is that the brand of controller? I presume you are not talking about Direct Current as everything within the Torino frame of reference is direct current.

Sorry, I just think I missed something somewhere in this very interesting discussion (I claim "engineer" on this one).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eliteman76 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-January-2015 at 3:26PM
Guys, THANK YOU for this information.

I am seriously looking to go to electric fans to free up the 15+/- HP my fan i sucking up.
I've been reluctant to switch but I'm really desiring electric fans to help with cooling, and better help with my 134A conversion.

Question: I've read over and over the Mark 8 fan is the best fan out there, but when i recently search for new units I had no luck.

I am really liking the idea of the Windstar twin fan setup. I like finding stuff that's OEM proven.

I have a pair of fans off a taurus with a 3.0 but I don't know if they have the power and CFM for what I need.

I also am looking at replacing my radiator as she is showing signs of leaking on the fins again. I recored it like 5 years ago and I think my 3 core is about pooched.

Because this thread is directly relating to cooling, can you guys post up your radiator pictures as well?

Part numbers, links, etc would be helpful to keep track of as well.

I have a question for you Scott. Much like the 335 forum of Network 54, I wonder how hard it would be to do a Torino Wiki for this stuff?
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eliteman76 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-January-2015 at 3:33PM
Application question:
Concerning the fan controllers, because I deal with VFD and soft starts for overhead cranes, I have an understanding of VFD {variable frequency drive} but they are used for three phase applications.

Now, I do know Vintage Air uses a modulation of some sort for their fan controls on the Gen 4 and newer systems for the interior fan.

I'd assume this is the same setup for variable fan speed control for an engine compartment?

Soft starts from my experience do exactly what it sounds like. it ramps the voltage up so there is not a huge end rush of current hitting the electric motor it's hooked to.

We used these for Hoist trolley motors and such, that way if you have a single speed motor that runs a trolley at 70 feet per minute it slowly ramps to speed instead of the old style contactor relays just hammering down and boom full speed ahead.

 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aquartlow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-January-2015 at 3:44PM
Andrew,
 I went with an all aluminum 3 core rad made by Champion, may not be the best out there but hasn't given me any issues and the price was right.
 
 
 
radiator-017.jpg
 
I have to tell you, it was an "eye-opening" experience the first time I went to WOT after removing the heavy fan clutch/clutch fan assembly from my BB. Hope the pics help. Todd
 
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Hey, the tigwelds on that look pretty decent.
I appreciate the info.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bata747-8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-January-2015 at 6:19PM
Andy,

I have a custom built 4 core radiator. It was made from an ailing factory 3 core that the right tube size could not be found so he told me he could build a 4 core that would cool even better. That was for the elite, had it rebuilt last year for the 75 sport, no issues. If I had to do it again I'd seriously consider Todd's solution of a 3 core AL radiator, prob better than mine. Only issue for me would be direct fit, as I am not personally really good at making parts fit that are not intended to be there.

With regard to the start up current, note that in my application I have two 40 A relays controlling two independent fans which each pull about 20A. So if even at startup it pulls twice as much then it will be ok. With a single mark viii fan you would not have that option but with a dual fan set up you would. Splits the current and the wear.

With regard to a Torino wiki - Carl is going to be helping me with several website improvements this year, and I think this suggestion is certainly worth more investigation and action. Please continue to bring this up as we move toward working on some site improvements.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bata747-8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20-January-2015 at 6:22PM
Oh and if you are not running a big block the mark viii fan the fitment issue may not apply. The small blocks are farther back from the radiator.

But like commercial airplanes, redundancy in two fans is always a good thing, especially with separate relays and some other wiring.

Edited by bata747-8 - 20-January-2015 at 6:23PM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72 RS 351 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-January-2015 at 7:43AM
Originally posted by bata747-8 bata747-8 wrote:

Originally posted by 72 RS 351 72 RS 351 wrote:

The high powered fans are best controlled by a PWM unit, because those do not allow the big current at start up.

I have a DC fan controller on my 99 Explorer, and for about 50k miles it was flawless(the trans went out in 2012).

There are a few PWM controllers, but do make sure the fan will fit before you commit to things. The DC unit is about the best internally, they are well made internally and do what they are supposed to. I don't like the tiny fragile power posts, they are about a #10 size and made of brass, easily twisted off when installing and not being super careful.

The DC units are made by the same one man/owner as far as I know, Brian is the name, and he asks for a lead time. I think the two I bought each came in about a week or so. I love how they operate, when the fan comes on it starts so smoothly that if you had a hand of finger in the fan, it would not hurt you. If the fan motor is quiet(doesn't whine etc), you will not hear it much at all because it usually will never need high rpm's. They do make higher capacity versions, to run more items etc, prices used to be around $110+.



Don I think I am missing an acronym reference. I of course know what PWM is - pulse width modulated, but the DC part has me lost. Is that the brand of controller? I presume you are not talking about Direct Current as everything within the Torino frame of reference is direct current.

Sorry, I just think I missed something somewhere in this very interesting discussion (I claim "engineer" on this one).


Whoops, I should have said that the DCC fan controller, is the brand included(I left off a C too). It stands for Delta Current Control, and it's a well known controller on the Explorer and Mustang forums, but it's simply a small company owned and run by the one man, Brian(forgot his last name).

There are several OEM Ford fans that can be great to cool V8's in a swap application. The Mark VIII and the biggest Taurus fan are the most well known. The Taurus fan is virtually the same motor, but it has a 1" smaller fan and it's little thinner. The late Crown Vic fans are supposed to be about as strong, but I've hardly ever seen one in a completed swap project. I've read of the Aerostar fans, but had never seen one. That might be a great choice for thin spaces.

I've got a used Mark VIII and Taurus fan from trying to use them for my Mountaineer. They were too thick for that(3.5" max space). I'll see how they fit(and look) in my Ranchero with a SBF. 

I too like the idea of an easy to get OEM part, try to imagine if the thing dies at some point, how long will it take you to find/replace the motor, or the whole thing?

How thick are those Aerostar Van fans, the main motor portion?

Here's a link to the DCC website, and the fan controller page. His prices have jumped since the last time I was there(2012ish).
http://dccontrol.com/
http://dccontrol.com/constant_temperature_controllers.htm



Edited by 72 RS 351 - 21-January-2015 at 7:50AM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72RogerGT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-January-2015 at 4:56PM
Guys all of your input is great. I have 5 Mark 8 fans i guess i went a little overboard buying them. They are really easy to find in junkyards. I have read good reviews about DCC controllers however I have read complaints about the posts as well as the fact that they were not waterproof. I think it is a good product yet I am a little hesitant about the price. If that controller will be everything I need is good but if I have to add other relays and wiring into it I might as well buy everything else for less. I have yet to review all the specs and capacity of the Derale unit and figure out which one will be best. My fan fit really good in the torino since i have the Cleveland. I have like an 1.5 inches of space. I was going to shave off 1/2" of the fan shroud but the fan fit good as is. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aquartlow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-January-2015 at 1:21AM
Roger,
 I can tell you that most aftermarket fan controllers will not have the amperage capacity to take on a Mark VIII fan's requirements, oh they may work a while, but will fry the relay or relay plug at the worst possible time. This is the reason for the secondary HD 70 amp relays I used in my application, they give me the added capacity I needed. I also like the DCC unit, although only having a 90 day warranty at an elevated cost made it a "no go" for me. Good luck with your search, you do have a number of options. Todd
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Psquare75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-January-2015 at 11:41AM
Ok... I did a Mark VIII. 

I used two golf cart solenoids, one for low speed, one for high, an autozone adjustable tstat, two small relays, and a bypass switch.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aquartlow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24-January-2015 at 2:48PM
Update: I did some testing today on 3 different Mark VIII fan assemblies/motors I pulled at a local U-Pull-It and had sitting on my warehouse shelves. I used a Southwire 22070T AC/DC current clamp meter.  Fan 1) Spiked 84.4 amps at start-up and 31.6 amps running. Fan 2) 71.3 amps at start-up and 27.7 amps running.  This last one is installed in place of the larger fan motor in my Windstar dual fan assembly installed in my Ranchero, Fan 3) 69.7 amps at start-up and 25.2 amps running. These readings are with the fan wired for high speed operation. I figured the #1 fan may be on it's last legs due to the increased amperage readings. With both Windstar fans running, both large and small, the running amperage is 42.7 amps. Testing shows that there is a certain amperage "range" between different motors of the same design/size. I hope this info helps someone looking to install a Mark VIII fan. Todd 

Edited by aquartlow - 24-January-2015 at 2:48PM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GranTorinoSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-January-2015 at 3:44AM
Todd, that is incredible information, and very good to know. That is a huge startup current for those, but the running power draw is not too bad, as I think my Flex-a-Lite dual fan setup draws more than 27 (it is more like your 42 amp Windstar setup). It would be interesting to measure the startup and steady state current on mine, but I do not have an amp clamp (had considered getting one someday).

Paul - I remember you talking about the golf cart solenoids - and I think that is a great idea. Aren't those meant to be actuated in constant use, so they'd be fine with the rigors of under hood use. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72 RS 351 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-January-2015 at 3:56AM
Originally posted by aquartlow aquartlow wrote:

Update: I did some testing today on 3 different Mark VIII fan assemblies/motors I pulled at a local U-Pull-It and had sitting on my warehouse shelves. I used a Southwire 22070T AC/DC current clamp meter.  Fan 1) Spiked 84.4 amps at start-up and 31.6 amps running. Fan 2) 71.3 amps at start-up and 27.7 amps running.  This last one is installed in place of the larger fan motor in my Windstar dual fan assembly installed in my Ranchero, Fan 3) 69.7 amps at start-up and 25.2 amps running. These readings are with the fan wired for high speed operation. I figured the #1 fan may be on it's last legs due to the increased amperage readings. With both Windstar fans running, both large and small, the running amperage is 42.7 amps. Testing shows that there is a certain amperage "range" between different motors of the same design/size. I hope this info helps someone looking to install a Mark VIII fan. Todd 


That's a hell of an alternator you have Todd, to run those, clearly it's not the old 55amp thing.

The radiator is the most important item, plus the air volume which reaches it. I have the typical 95-01 Explorer SUV's, and their radiator is so efficient that the fan is not needed much at all at low speeds or stopped. My 99 with the electric fan was very quiet, the fan I'd bet never had to run half speed. It would start really slowly, and barely be audible in stop and go traffic(I delivered mail with it for 70k+ miles).

I bet with a high quality aluminum radiator and a strong fan, less than 15 amps would be needed in stop and go traffic.

I had plans to add(existing AC wire on the controller) the trigger for when the AC clutch was on. I never did it because I was driving with the window down, and really only used the AC at the tail end of my route in 90+ weather. I'd like to get with DCC and Brian, to ask him if he can make his AC circuit run at just 50% speed, and trigger it with a speed signal instead of full time. These things can keep the current draw down a bunch.


Edited by 72 RS 351 - 25-January-2015 at 3:56AM
Don
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aquartlow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-January-2015 at 4:56AM
  I have already "stepped-up" to a 130amp 3G, one of the best upgrades I have done. While the fan is engaged/running, my positive battery terminal's voltage gauge reads 14.4v(this pic shows when the there is only the Crane ignition and Edelbrock electric fuel pump on with engine running).
 
I like the DCC unit very much(and have heard rave reviews of Brian's product), but IMO the "only" 90 day warranty sucks. Derale has a PWM unit I may look into although it doesn't have the current capability of the DCC, the one issue that both share is the push-in temp probe. I would MUCH rather have a screw-in temp sensor. I haven't had any issues with the fans/relays or controllers so far, but you definitely know when the large fan(wired on high speed circuit only) kicks on. A PWM'd controlled fan would remedy the "short burst" electrical spike when the fan turns on.
 
 Here is a couple pics of the Windstar assembly in my ride: 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72 RS 351 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25-January-2015 at 7:19AM
I like the looks of that Windstar fan, it's great to know that there are good OEM choices out there.

I understand about the DCC issues too, I've read plenty of reviews mentioning lack of instant communication, and the short warantee.

Honestly from owning a retrofitted electric fan, I would avoid doing one for a long haul vehicle, or for a critical use vehicle. The chances of a problem are relatively high for a system you do yourself, from fan failure to the controller, to basic wiring issues. I have read of many problems with systems people added to their Explorers, most of them for off road uses, harsh of course, but the issues were always basic wiring or parts failures.

I had my "marine" circuit breaker trip when I washed the engine bay, and then it failed later on. Though the controller never had issues, I think I will see about installing a back up controller system in some way, from alternate current path and relays, to a 2nd controller in place, or a spare set of parts. That's only for a critical use car though, one you would take on a trip etc. My 99 SUV was for local use and work only, I had a spare to use then if needed.

That is part of why an OEM fan is a wise start, you should be able to buy one(or the motor) at a local parts store easily.


Don
73 Ranchero "Sport 72 front end", floor shift/console, planning EFI 7000+ rpm 351-4V &4R70W
73 Ranchero GT 351C-4V &4R70W for sale later.
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