Oil Additive |
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GoldFinger
Senior Member Joined: 03-April-2015 Location: North Carolina Status: Offline Points: 295 |
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Posted: 12-December-2015 at 2:10PM |
Hello,
When I start my Torino of course there is a little bit of water that comes out of the exhaust pipes now have notice on the driveway that I have grey or black carbon or soot that is leaving marks on the driveway where the exhaust pipes exit. So I was thinking about an oil additive to clean out the internal parts of the engine. The car I'm confident only has about 74,000 miles on it, there's been some work done to the heads and a cam shaft installation, outside of that I believe the internals are original. Does anyone have any recommendations of a good oil additive to clean out the internal parts of the 351 Cleveland? Any recommendations would be appreciated thanks! Edited by GoldFinger - 12-December-2015 at 2:11PM |
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DARE to be DIFFERENT!!
73 GTS |
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californiajohnny
Moderator Group Joined: 05-October-2013 Location: winlock, wa Status: Offline Points: 14609 |
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that water condensation when you start it is normal during these cooler days, and with it idling to warm up parked in the same spot can wash out a little soot from the pipes also fairly normal.
not sure on your additive question, but if you suspect oil sludge...a quart of ATF added to the oil about 50 miles or so before an oil change can clean out built up gunk inside the motor. good oil with regular oil changes is the best thing you can do to keep any engine running great and last a long time! |
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JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE 74 VETTE CUSTOM 90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED 77 CELICA CUSTOM 75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED 79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED 75 VEGA V6 5 SPD 70 CHEV C10 P/U 68 MUSTANG FB CONVERSION |
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GoldFinger
Senior Member Joined: 03-April-2015 Location: North Carolina Status: Offline Points: 295 |
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I use Valvoline racing 10w30, and one quart of 20w50.
I never heard of using one quart of Type F ATF fluid in the oil. But I just may try, thanks Johnny! |
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DARE to be DIFFERENT!!
73 GTS |
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californiajohnny
Moderator Group Joined: 05-October-2013 Location: winlock, wa Status: Offline Points: 14609 |
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i use valvoline 20/50 in all my cars and have for 30+ years! never any gunk build up or any problems, ever!
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JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE 74 VETTE CUSTOM 90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED 77 CELICA CUSTOM 75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED 79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED 75 VEGA V6 5 SPD 70 CHEV C10 P/U 68 MUSTANG FB CONVERSION |
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Ranchero Fan
Senior Member Joined: 03-March-2011 Location: Chicago area Status: Offline Points: 1022 |
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Ditto on the regular oil & filter changes, also have used Valvoline exclusively, 'til I got my ''PowerStroke''(Rotella synth.for it), & the wife's Taurus Motorcraft only 'cause I have the dealer I worked for, change it. I can't fit under it & takes me longer to drag the floor jack out & take the lower chassis shroud off than to have them do it
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Brian 1973 Ford Ranchero Big Block. ''THE OTHER WOMAN''
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Ranchero Fan
Senior Member Joined: 03-March-2011 Location: Chicago area Status: Offline Points: 1022 |
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I also heard using ATF, an elderly neighbor (retired teamster also) used to do it every other oil change. I have used SEAFOAM poured slowly into the vac. hose that supplies the brake booster, to clean the upper parts of the engine. Smokes like hell for a little bit but, seemed to help the Explorer I had.
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Brian 1973 Ford Ranchero Big Block. ''THE OTHER WOMAN''
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californiajohnny
Moderator Group Joined: 05-October-2013 Location: winlock, wa Status: Offline Points: 14609 |
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JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE 74 VETTE CUSTOM 90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED 77 CELICA CUSTOM 75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED 79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED 75 VEGA V6 5 SPD 70 CHEV C10 P/U 68 MUSTANG FB CONVERSION |
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fordpower
Senior Member Joined: 02-September-2010 Location: willseyville,ny Status: Offline Points: 1766 |
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My grandfather said they always put a half to a quart of typef in the city cabs.Most prof. to day say it will rune the motor
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Ranchero Fan
Senior Member Joined: 03-March-2011 Location: Chicago area Status: Offline Points: 1022 |
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[QUOTE=fordpower]My grandfather said they always put a half to a quart of typef in the city cabs.Most prof. to day say it will rune the motor[/QUOTE I would agree, oil & fuel were crap, back in the day, & the engines weren't so efficient, so additives(some) were needed. Today I wouldn't recommend using any of the older maintainance habbits either.
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Brian 1973 Ford Ranchero Big Block. ''THE OTHER WOMAN''
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Big Bird
Senior Member Joined: 25-August-2013 Location: New York Status: Offline Points: 4194 |
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I knew guys who would use a "brake fluid and water" mix to de-carbon their engines. They would rev the engine and feed it in thru the carb slowly. Smoked terribly, smelled awful, and made them happy.
Don't know if it did anything for the engine. They would also put ATF in the oil a day before changing... I remember them replacing a few engines... Might be related.
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"What we do in full frontal view, is more honest than your cleaned-up mind."
Randy 1979 T-Bird 2005 F-150 STX RCSB 4.6, 3.55 LSD How the Heck does a REGULAR CAB SHORTBED weigh over 5200 pounds? |
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fordpower
Senior Member Joined: 02-September-2010 Location: willseyville,ny Status: Offline Points: 1766 |
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I would have to agree with dan todays engines are way more tec.
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GoldFinger
Senior Member Joined: 03-April-2015 Location: North Carolina Status: Offline Points: 295 |
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Yeah,but my engine is a 73 351 cleveland..which is why I started this thread.Lol
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DARE to be DIFFERENT!!
73 GTS |
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Ranchero Fan
Senior Member Joined: 03-March-2011 Location: Chicago area Status: Offline Points: 1022 |
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Sounds like a normal issue for a 43 yr. old car. Maybe the car has seen seasonal use, or hardly any use before you bought it. Start with an oil change & take some good long drives & blow the cob webs out of her. Pull the valve covers off if your worried & see if the heads are sludge free, if they aren't then clean out what you can by hand & then look @ some of the suggestions mentioned above. Just my ....02.
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Brian 1973 Ford Ranchero Big Block. ''THE OTHER WOMAN''
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Rockatansky
Senior Member Joined: 30-July-2010 Location: On The Road Status: Offline Points: 6072 |
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72 GT Ute
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unlovedford
Senior Member Joined: 17-December-2010 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 10142 |
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I've used Seafoam in our newer cars with good results. C's Acura seemed to have the best reaction to it, but all ran smoother. Should work well on older carb'd cars. Nothing wrong with trying it.
But, and I say this from experience, be careful what "cleansing additives" you add to the crankcase. A very mildly varnished engine will benefit from a detergent cleansing, but one that is heavily sludged is another matter. I would advise against using any cleanser in an engine with heavy buildup. Here's why: When you have an engine with lots of buildup, it is not merely a thick viscous buildup, but will have hardened deposits as well. As the cleansing agent courses through the engine, it quickly takes off the gunk that still has liquid properties and then begins eating away at the hardened deposits. Slowly, but surely. All of this is flowing around in your engine, everywhere, and into the sump/oil pickup tube/pump.. The fully dissolved goo is held in suspension, but the hardened chunks (think the hardest mineral deposits or plastered coatings you've encountered) will end up in the sump. On their way, they can clog orifices, lifters, oil journals. Even if they get to the sump, they will be sucked into the pickup screen on the oil pump. Once enough have broken loose in the engine, they will eventually clog the screen on the pickup tube. No more oil flowing to vital parts, then...POW. If you have gauges and shut it off in time, you can pull the engine, clean the pan, install a new screen/pickup tube and then put the engine back in. However, the grit and hardened buildup has had it's "protective" layer of gunk removed and it will continue to break off and collect in the sump, again clogging up the screen. Terrible cycle to get into. I don't recommend this to everyone, but it has worked well for me in the past when faced with heavy buildup, lack of funds, and no other choice: Remove the engine. Pull the intake, valve covers, pump and pan. Stuff rags into all intake ports. Take a pressure washer and literally blast off everything you can see on the heads, lifter valley, bottom end, and all oil ports. I mean REALLY get it into every spot. Keep blasting until everything looks clean and tidy. Pay special attention to all return holes and tight areas. Once everything is very clean, take a garden hose and flush everything with copious amounts of water. Blow dry and blast through all return ports with compressed air from your compressor. Really get it as dry as you can, tilting the engine to rid it of all water. Once done, thinly coat everything inside with light engine oil, install new pump and screen and reassemble. Install and fill with fresh oil and good filter, prime new pump. Run for an hour. Change oil and filter again while hot (let drain overnight) and run for 2 hours. Change oil and filter while hot (again letting drain overnight) and you should be ready to go. I have done this several times and ended up with a much healthier engine that went on about it's business with no issues. Time consuming, but when faced with limited funds, it does help greatly. |
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Joe
1972 Mom's Squire Wagon 1972 Torino Wagon 1976 Torino 1968 Cougar XR7-First batch 1972 Torino 460 1989 BroncoII/Jeeps/Titanimous Popeye and Brutus (Rams) |
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Rockatansky
Senior Member Joined: 30-July-2010 Location: On The Road Status: Offline Points: 6072 |
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72 GT Ute
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fordpower
Senior Member Joined: 02-September-2010 Location: willseyville,ny Status: Offline Points: 1766 |
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I have fear with carbon removing items.I had my99 tourus done.It cost 110$ I will admit it ran 100 percent better.On way back from city it burned a hole right through a valve.
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Rockatansky
Senior Member Joined: 30-July-2010 Location: On The Road Status: Offline Points: 6072 |
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I do recall my dad telling me that you don't want to 'clean out' a high miler
just drive it real nice like you don't want to walk home
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72 GT Ute
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GoldFinger
Senior Member Joined: 03-April-2015 Location: North Carolina Status: Offline Points: 295 |
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I believe I'm going to just change the oil more frequently, maybe,and I mean maybe add some Marvel Mystery Oil to it, because it's old school, that I've used before with no problems previously. But we shall see, ha!
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DARE to be DIFFERENT!!
73 GTS |
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havanariviera
Senior Member Joined: 24-August-2015 Location: Pennsylvania Status: Offline Points: 243 |
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See the attached photo; my
72 GTS, 351 Cleveland was running rich for no more than a few weeks, and I had the same issue – it built up quite a bit of
carbon during that period. Fouled out the plugs and left some soot marks. In my
case, it was the condensation washing out the carbon buildup in the exhaust
system - once the carb had been properly tuned. You may want to check your spark plugs....if they are black....then you are running rich. If not, then you're fine and it might be another issue. I still get the condensation due to the cold weather and infrequent driving this time of year in PA, but the expulsion of soot has gradually gotten less and less, and is basically nonexistent now. |
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