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Oil Leaking from under intake

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bdaugette View Drop Down
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    Posted: 12-March-2015 at 1:38AM
Well, I noticed some oil on the floor yesterday...found some oil on top of the engine by the oil pressure sensor.  I hoped it was a leaking sensor, which I was replacing anyway, but I watched it leak out from under the intake manifold while the engine was running.

I assume there is no good fix here, other than to remove the intake and re-install it.  It is an Edelbrock Performer, hopefully, I can locate the problem....
Bill Daugette
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IndyLTD I I Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-March-2015 at 4:23AM
Yeah, if it's truly coming out from the intake, it sounds like the lifter valley end seals have slipped or are leaking. Remove and replacing intake and gaskets is the solution as you already guessed. A lot of guys use a big bead of silicon sealer instead of the factory cork or rubber seals. I used the seals and a dab of silicon in the corners where they touch the heads intake mounting surface.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GranTorinoSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-March-2015 at 4:36AM
I know on my pickup (FE block, not small block) it is recommended to simply throw away the end seals and use only goop. I got the permatex black goop, nice thick bead (everything super clean before assembly) and it worked well.

I can not recommend getting rid of the end seals for your engine, someone else with some experience in small blocks will need to comment on that. But I do know at least getting some good goop on the will help a ton.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Regul8r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-March-2015 at 10:21AM
the rubber end gaskets are the best, they have tabs that hold them in place.
I use 3m Yellow Weatherstrip adhesive to seal the gasket to the block and of course a dab of silicone in the corners to ensure no leaking.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lynchster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-March-2015 at 12:14PM
I've read that one Cleveland builder doesn't use the rubber seals. He uses the cork ones and peens the block and intake surfaces so the gasket doesn't slide around. I haven't decided which way I'm going just yet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-March-2015 at 12:26PM
Originally posted by GranTorinoSport GranTorinoSport wrote:

I can not recommend getting rid of the end seals for your engine, someone else with some experience in small blocks will need to comment on that. But I do know at least getting some good goop on the will help a ton.
 
I will, throw them as far as you can!
 
either with the turkey pan style intake or the race style gaskets, just use a bead of silicone in place of the cork or rubber gaskets
 
silicone did not exist at the time when cork or rubber was needed to fill the void
 
what I do is clean the inside of the 'china wall' down at least 1/2" from the top & use that vertical surface to guarantee a good seal, so the silicone isn't just sitting on top of the wall. but even if it is, as long as the metal is clean, it's better than the cork or rubber
 
good news is that the 351C intake can be re-sealed w/o removing the distributor or draining coolant Clap
 
could that be part of the Race Motor design, Hmmm? 
 
only good use for them we've found...
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bdaugette Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12-March-2015 at 11:51PM
The bright side, like mentioned above, is that I can remove the intake relatively easily!  I may combine the project with the installation of the roller rockers I picked up from Tommy C.  Thought I was going to do it this weekend, but the wife informed me that I wanted to do something else...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GranTorinoSport Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13-March-2015 at 2:39AM
Originally posted by Rockatansky Rockatansky wrote:

Originally posted by GranTorinoSport GranTorinoSport wrote:

I can not recommend getting rid of the end seals for your engine, someone else with some experience in small blocks will need to comment on that. But I do know at least getting some good goop on the will help a ton.
 
I will, throw them as far as you can!
 
either with the turkey pan style intake or the race style gaskets, just use a bead of silicone in place of the cork or rubber gaskets
 
silicone did not exist at the time when cork or rubber was needed to fill the void
 
what I do is clean the inside of the 'china wall' down at least 1/2" from the top & use that vertical surface to guarantee a good seal, so the silicone isn't just sitting on top of the wall. but even if it is, as long as the metal is clean, it's better than the cork or rubber
 
good news is that the 351C intake can be re-sealed w/o removing the distributor or draining coolant Clap
 
could that be part of the Race Motor design, Hmmm? 
 
only good use for them we've found...
 

Man, that is classic. Smart cat, for sure! So I guess the recommendation is the same as is for FE's. I have to admit I was a little squeamish doing that the first time, and that is a great recommendation to get a little down the inner china wall for adhesion (I never thought of that), but the process really does work. 

I used (on my FE) Permatex's "The Right Stuff" gasket maker in a cheese-wiz style squirt can. Here is a link to it on Amazon:


Made the process pretty painless. Just have to check it when everything is squished down with a mirror and I smooth it a tad with my finger for good measure.


Edited by GranTorinoSport - 13-March-2015 at 3:01AM
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