synthetic or not,this is the ?
Printed From: The Ford Torino Page
Category: Model Specific Forum
Forum Name: General Automotive Technical Discussion
Forum Description: Technical Automotive discussion of anything not specific to mid-size Ford/Merc
URL: https://forum.grantorinosport.org/forum_posts.asp?TID=12392
Printed Date: 17-April-2024 at 2:29PM
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.06 - https://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: synthetic or not,this is the ?
Posted By: 73torino gt
Subject: synthetic or not,this is the ?
Date Posted: 21-August-2014 at 11:56AM
|
What's everyone running in their rides?I have a 351cj that's been rebuilt and then sat for 13yrs.she's up and running now but I'm not sure what to put in her.no pun intended.not sure how to break it in? Hit me with ur wise knowledge o keeper of the fords. |
Replies:
Posted By: ilyes
Date Posted: 21-August-2014 at 2:00PM
| I wouldn't run synthetic if it has been seating for a while. Dry seals will soften up and become porous after a short period of time. I would run regular oil, with a break in additive (if you are running a flat tappet cam). Before starting it, you should see if it spins freely and go from there. |
Posted By: bata747-8
Date Posted: 21-August-2014 at 2:37PM
|
I intend to run synthetic in my 521 after it is broke in (maybe 10,000 miles or so?). I currently run mobil1 10w30. What ilyes said is correct that 1. Let the engine break in 2. Old engines with aged/cracked/compromised seals have great potential to leak more with synthetic because the synthetic will do a better job at getting particles out of micro cracks in the seals and open up more potential leaks. With that being said, I will assume that since the engine is rather old that it has been stored in a temperate environment out of the elements. If that assumption is correct, break it in and run synthetic later if you desire. Should be ok. ------------- Forum Test Account (formerly a spam bot account) |
Posted By: californiajohnny
Date Posted: 21-August-2014 at 2:53PM
|
scott, isn't mobil 1 a synthetic oil? ------------- JOHN 74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE 74 VETTE CUSTOM 90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED 77 CELICA CUSTOM 75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED 79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED 75 VEGA V6 5 SPD 70 CHEV C10 P/U 68 MUSTANG FB CONVERSION |
Posted By: bata747-8
Date Posted: 21-August-2014 at 7:24PM
Why,yes it is John. That was a great catch. My apologies. I wrote what I *wanted* to be using, not what I am using. I looked up my order history on Amazon (could have looked in my trunk also but the ipad was closer). It is Valvoline VR-1 10w30. The specific link to it on amazon is: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJ4FMK2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 There are other places to buy it of course. Why VR-1? It has a high amount of zinc, ZDDP, which helps older engines. Comes in six packs. For the 521, that bastard takes like seven or eight quarts of oil so I had to get two packs. Good Dino-based oil for break in, or even every day use. ------------- Forum Test Account (formerly a spam bot account) |
californiajohnny wrote:Posted By: Zebra 3
Date Posted: 22-August-2014 at 12:42AM
|
http://forum.grantorinosport.org/best-motor-oil_topic10008.html?KW=amsoil" rel="nofollow - http://forum.grantorinosport.org/best-motor-oil_topic10008.html?KW=amsoil ------------- "I deeply admire the men who founded this country, and I think we ought to know more about them and how they lived and the force and courage they had. Henry Ford. 1926 Brian Conn '76 Torino |
Posted By: unlovedford
Date Posted: 22-August-2014 at 3:25AM
|
I mess with a lot of Jeeps, and the 4.0 engines LOVE the zinc. Synthetic fluids are wonderful, if your seals are new and in excellent shape, or on an engine that has seen regular activity and been running synthetic oil. I use synthetic fluids in every vehicle we drive (except Stripper)for the transfer cases, front/rear ends, chassis/steering components, engines. Transmission fluid is always dealer spec, as the more modern transmissions demand certain fluids. On a break-in, I use Lucas ZDDP additive for the break-in, then change to full Synthetic fluids after that. Do not leave that in the crankcase for more than the break-in period. Ever. Brands. I drive a tremendous amount of miles each year in gas-powered vehicles and have done quite a bit of research and experimentation with different Synthetics. All tests are done with Purolator filters (anti-drainback valves). Synthetics (tests done with my Titan, F-150, Dodge Ram, Civic, Acura TL, 4 speed GTS, Jeep XJ): Castrol Edge Titanium - High quality oil. However, it does not cling to vital engine parts overnight or during non-use very well. Notice momentary clatter upon startup. Oil pressure drops dramatically when hot. 5W20, 5W30, 10W30 (viscosities I have used) Pennzoil PurePlus - High quality oil. Better "clingability" than Castrol, less clatter upon startup, better oil pressure when hot. 5W20, 5W30, 10W30. (see above) Valvoline SynPower - About the same experiences as Pennzoil. 5W20, 5W30 (see above) Mobile 1 - High quality oil. More years of race/consumer testing, as it has been around far longer than the others (not basing any experiences on that). No clatter upon startup, better "clingability" than the others, FAR better oil pressure when hot, seems to clean better than the others. THE best oil on the market for my driving situations. Royal Purple - High quality oil. EXPENSIVE as s**t. Used it in my Dodge Ram with the 4.7, did well, but no discernible difference over Mobile 1. Now, I put my vehicles through more intense "tests" than 90% of drivers out there. Towing trailers/payloads of combined weight of 12,500 pounds from South Texas to Tennessee in 100+ heat non-stop (except for gas and food) with 1/2 ton trucks. Start/stop/start/stop, then hard charges on the highway, then more start/stop/start/stop - continuously for 2 week intervals. Traffic jams, road construction, idling for hours on pipeline ROW's in sweltering TX/LA humidity and heat. Winter driving in near 0 degree temps causing cold start after cold start with no real warmup. These kinds of tests. No, I am not a professional "tester" of oils, but I have found what works the best for me in a variety of vehicles and conditions. I change my Synthetics every 5K to 7.5K miles. Yes, I know it is overkill, but my drivetrains are the difference between enjoyment/getting the job done and inconvenience/expense/missing deadlines/and sometimes death. When someone starts shooting at you on a pipeline ROW, you need to be able to mat the pedal, strain the drivetrain and get the f**k out of there...and be able to then drive 20 hours home with no worries. That is worth the added expense of additional fluid changes and superior fluids. Zero doubt. Not meaning to rattle on, but these are my experiences with the different oils and reflect the worst-case scenarios. Also, as a side note, if you do punish (not abuse) your vehicles, give them a regular pat on the dash, a good detail, sincere thank you's, and a set of Michelin tires. They appreciate that. Laugh if you want, but... ------------- Joe 1972 Mom's Squire Wagon 1972 Torino Wagon 1976 Torino 1968 Cougar XR7-First batch 1972 Torino 460 1989 BroncoII/Jeeps/Titanimous Popeye and Brutus (Rams) |
Posted By: ilyes
Date Posted: 22-August-2014 at 1:43PM
| I'm surprised you didn't bring the Shell Rotella T5 10w30 diesel oil. It runs just fine on gasoline engine, contains more cleaning agents to keep everything shinny inside. Last as it is designed for diesel, it contains a lot more ZDDP than regular oil. They dropped the percentage a few years ago, as it does not do well on cats, but it still is one of the most concentrated in the market. |
Posted By: Big Bird
Date Posted: 22-August-2014 at 1:49PM
Anyone do a taste test?  ------------- "What we do in full frontal view, is more honest than your cleaned-up mind." Randy 1979 T-Bird 2005 F-150 STX RCSB 4.6, 3.55 LSD How the Heck does a REGULAR CAB SHORTBED weigh over 5200 pounds? |
Posted By: unlovedford
Date Posted: 23-August-2014 at 8:36AM
|
I have done involuntary taste tests on Stripper when I start her. LOL. ------------- Joe 1972 Mom's Squire Wagon 1972 Torino Wagon 1976 Torino 1968 Cougar XR7-First batch 1972 Torino 460 1989 BroncoII/Jeeps/Titanimous Popeye and Brutus (Rams) |
Posted By: unlovedford
Date Posted: 23-August-2014 at 8:37AM
|
Wait, let me clarify that. I can taste the oil from the wisp of smoke from Stripper's tailpipe. ------------- Joe 1972 Mom's Squire Wagon 1972 Torino Wagon 1976 Torino 1968 Cougar XR7-First batch 1972 Torino 460 1989 BroncoII/Jeeps/Titanimous Popeye and Brutus (Rams) |
Posted By: unlovedford
Date Posted: 23-August-2014 at 8:38AM
Never mind.  ------------- Joe 1972 Mom's Squire Wagon 1972 Torino Wagon 1976 Torino 1968 Cougar XR7-First batch 1972 Torino 460 1989 BroncoII/Jeeps/Titanimous Popeye and Brutus (Rams) |
Posted By: californiajohnny
Date Posted: 23-August-2014 at 8:44AM
------------- JOHN 74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE 74 VETTE CUSTOM 90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED 77 CELICA CUSTOM 75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED 79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED 75 VEGA V6 5 SPD 70 CHEV C10 P/U 68 MUSTANG FB CONVERSION |
Posted By: legend onirot
Date Posted: 23-August-2014 at 8:48AM
|
hmmm ------------- --------------------- malcolm 1973 gran torino sport (formal)... "Stacy Lynn" 1972 gran torino (formal)... "Mackenzie" 1973 gran torino sport (sportroof)... "Leela" |
Posted By: ilyes
Date Posted: 23-August-2014 at 12:50PM
| Funny you say that Joe, I worked on a 64 LTD last week. It is running a 302 and has leaky valve stem seals, let me tell you how wonderful it felt. That and the saggy bench seat, I went back 5 years and dove in the memories of my 73. |