I will be converting my 72 ranchero to rear disc brakes. I will be installing a complete rear end out of a 79 Lincoln Continental, that way I will have 4 wheel disc brakes. 

My question is, would I need a new/different proportioning valve since I will be going from disc/drum to disc/disc. It was also mentioned to me, by the shop that rebuilt my calipers, that since I will have 4 wheel disc I would not have to use a proportioning valve. 

Any insight and direction you guys would be able to point me in would be greatly appreciated. 

Thanks for taking the time to stop by, read this, and offer any help you might have. 

-DeMarco

-DeMarco

 

Yes, the combo I described will work with hydro boost or a vacuum brake booster, no problem.  An 1 1/8" bore MC like the T-bird I mentioned has, will feel a bit heavier to push when using a vacuum booster, due to it having less "assist" as compared to a hydro-boost booster, that said it shouldn't be a night and day difference, just a few percentage difference(like 5-10%). If wanted and/or needed a 1" bore disc/disc master cylinder could be substituted which would give an easier to push pedal with more pressure at the sacrifice of having more pedal travel to make up for the less volume of a smaller MC bore. It is all a balancing act when dealing with having adequate brake fluid pressure and pedal feel.

Those are great guidelines, the MC piston sizes etc.

Do you have any idea if the later Mustangs(99-04) use the same MC bolt pattern? I'm putting one of those hydro-boost systems in my 92 Lincoln, and the same units would be easy to buy for use in the older Fords too. I've mentioned it before, I'm going to try to fit the 03-2011 Crown Vic rear brakes onto my 73. I have the set of parts but I decided against my 99 Explorer(retiring, so it's a spare vehicle soon). Those rear discs are very common right now, and they have good rotors and piston sizes for a large car.

 Not sure if the question above was for me, but IIRC the Mustang MC has mounting bolts/studs that are vertical whereas the T-bird and most Ford MC's have horizontal mounting points. That said, if you get a 99-04 Mustang HB then just use the Mustang MC of course. Not sure if this applicable, but as far as the mounting bolt pattern of the Mustang HB unit itself, I am not sure if it matches anything else. When I did my HB install, I used an Astro-van HB unit which utilizes an easily removable mounting plate which allowed me to fabricate a mounting plate to match my Ranchero's original brake booster mounting stud/firewall mounting hole configuration. Hope this is helpful

-DeMarco

 

Just an FYI, '98-'02 Ford Crown Vic rear disc brake assemblies are almost a bolt-in on a small bearing '72 Torino/Ranchero 9" housing. I happen to use a small bearing housing out of a '72 Lincoln Mark IV under my Ranchero(mainly for the 31 spline axles and 4 pinion trac-lok carrier).  

Once I pick up the 3rd member and housing I will drop it off at my Differential shop and they will reassembly it will all new everything. 

That helps a lot, thanks. I prefer to use parts that are easier to get, and to install. So I'm not too picky, if the 99-04 MC doesn't adapt easily to the old Fords, I'll look at the Astro van for that hydro-boost MC.

I have a 95 CV still, and the rear rotors until 2003 were solid, and the 03+ is a vented 12" size, similar to the Cobra except with different piston sizes. I know the parking brake cable is odd(perpendicular going in), so it will require welding a tab onto the rear to hold the cable.

There are some 75-76 Thunderbirds with the same system, parts as well.

 I would say using the Mustang set-up as a whole would probably work well, now if trying to use a Mustang HB unit(hydraulic portion) and not use the vertically mounted Mustang MC then that would probably give you issues(trying to find another MC that will physically mount and work). I used the Astro van HB unit(hydraulic portion that mounts to firewall), but my MC is sourced from an '80 Corvette. I know sounds difficult/involved, but the Astro-van HB unit uses a shallow bore MC, which the Corvette MC has. The 'Vette MC also is a 4 wheel disc 1 1/8" bore MC and it has fender exit ports(I wanted this to get brake lines/hoses away from header heat). Yes, the '98-'02 rear rotors are solid(I did buy drilled and slotted for my application) and I also had to fab up E-brake cable routing and connection to Ranchero E-brake cable. As far as the Astro-van HB unit goes, it is very easily adaptable to just about any firewall, just need to pay attention to the HB unit's input rod in relation to the vehicle's brake pedal attachment point( I had to cut and weld the rod to work with my application). I initially cut the rod to be able to totally disassemble and re-seal the HB unit, once re-sealed I welded and gusseted the rod to add strength. I did many two feet on the brake pedal stops to ensure that there would be no issues, been installed since '10 or '11 and it's been all good.

I'm sorry DeMarco, for cluttering up your thread. I thought you had received a very good answer to your question about MC and prop valve etc. I know that aquartlow is very familiar with various brakes, and the hydro boost systems for his Ranchero.

-DeMarco

 

Hey CJ,

 I moved my pivot point on my brake pedal to give me a higher pedal ratio, IIRC. Doing this also lessened the angle on the input rod. I do not remember what the exact ratio worked out to be off the top of my head.

I would love the proportioning valve if it is still available. 

I jus got my rear end back today. I'm going it have to rotate the calipers and brackets, but all in all it looks fugging amazing. 

Looks like this now.

But Started out like this. 

Those look great. For braking power, the OEM 70's discs may be the best choices, but I haven't checked the caliper piston size(affects power and balance). Ford did make good thick rotors back then, they made them thinner as time went on into the 90's.

I will prefer the later model brakes for ease of maintenance and finding parts. But any upgrade is a good thing IMO.

Finally got everything assembled. 

Had to add some spacers to the caliper bracket because the caliper was hitting the shock mount. So spaced them out, bolted them on, added a wheel adapter to go from 5x5 to a 5x4.5 wheel bolt pattern. 

I have some pictures.

Idk why the pictures upload all funky. They looked fine when I took.them ha. But this is way will be going in my Chero.

Once everything is under the car I was possibly thinking of getting a customer axle bearing/caliper bracket made to fit. 

And thank you.

Buuuuut they were all miss matched pieces. But I was able to make it work.

So I'm going to get everything prepped on my ranchero this weekend, so I can get ready to swap. 

Only thing I'm sketchy about is the parking brake stuff. But I'm sure it will be ok. 

Something's not right though.

Any chance the caliper brackets are on the wrong sides? driver/passenger? That would turn them upside down and affect mounting/clearance.

Your caliper retainers are up on top. Johnny's are at the bottom.

From pictures, his calipers are hitting the shock and upper control arm brackets and needed to be shimmed. They appear to be out of place, not concentric with the rotor.

Johnny's pictures show the caliper retainer (and bolt for it) the the bottom of the caliper.

Dmark28's are on top. That tells me the caliper mount bracket is upside down. Caliper mount bracket bolts to the bearing/axle retainer. I don't know if they are symmetrical, or different from side to side.

Either way, this mislocates the caliper.

In his original pic, the calipers are forward of the axle instead of behind it. This appears to be corrected, but the shims are a new symptom.

You all bring up very very good points. 

When I got the rearend, yes, it was all in peices and missmatched at that. So I had to do alit if digging and research to find any parts that I was going to still need to make it happen. 

With that being said. I too am not fond of the spacers. I am merely using them as place holders until I can either find a solid spacer or now that I have the measurements get some made. Eventually it will be changed. 

As far as the caliper brackets go I tried a few different combos before I bolted everything together. I even took a look back at the pictures that Californiajohnny shared. 

I tried to match my caliper position to the picture. The hose that feeds the caliper with fluid would hit the shock mount bracket not allowing the caliper to sit correctly, thus the spacers. Eventually I plan on Getting custom retainer/caliper bracket made, but that's a long way off. 

Right I want to jus get it in the car. So that's what I'll be doing today getting the old rearend removed and then new one put in.

pictures to come. 

And at 8:50pm we are in. Tomorrow tighten it up and figure out the e-brake n some other stuff. 

Your caliper mounting brackets are upside down. 

The "Key" and retainer bolt are on top. They should be on the bottom. 

I don't know if you can just flip them or you also have to swap them side to side. 

I do know that they are not right and unsafe with those spacers. Spacers should not be needed. Something is not right. 

Please be careful...