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Exhaust Manifold bolts

Printed From: The Ford Torino Page
Category: Model Specific Forum
Forum Name: General Automotive Technical Discussion
Forum Description: Technical Automotive discussion of anything not specific to mid-size Ford/Merc
URL: https://forum.grantorinosport.org/forum_posts.asp?TID=4836
Printed Date: 28-March-2024 at 3:14AM
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Topic: Exhaust Manifold bolts
Posted By: GranTorinoSport
Subject: Exhaust Manifold bolts
Date Posted: 06-January-2011 at 5:46AM
So I have what is really a general (all engine type) question:

What type of exhaust manifold bolts should I use with standard exhaust manifolds?

This is specifically related to my 71 F-250 with the 360 FE in it.

When I had originally done a great deal of work to it, I replaced every bolt I could (the old ones were literally breaking of by the dozen, it was crazy) with a nice and shiny ARP accessory bolt mount kit in stainless steel.

Very, very nice bolts.

When I had the cracked exhaust manifold a year later (I did not change those bolts), when I bought a new manifold I opted to put in some ARP stainless bolts there as well (manifold to head).

A couple months go by and they loosened up. I get new gaskets, remove, replace and retorque and then I loctite the lower aft bolts that loosened up.

Fast forward several more months (to last week) and I am under the hood looking at my wonderful coolant-in-the-combustion-chamber issue, and notice an upper aft bolt is worked it's way out at least a quarter of an inch (not one that I had loc-tited).

What was there before were bolts from Lowe's or Home Depot, and while they were junk, they also did not loosen up.

Would I be better off getting the ARP black oxide bolts? Should I have loc-tited every bolt?

Should I go to Home Depot and buy some bolts?


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Scott Eklund

Webmaster



Replies:
Posted By: Psquare75
Date Posted: 06-January-2011 at 5:50AM
Sadly I think on my exhaust manifold equipped cars, I just grab HD/Lowes bolts, and actually, I put Never Seize on them.. I always have trouble with those BREAKING, lol.



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Paul
77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD*
78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1
79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1
'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500


Posted By: Regul8r
Date Posted: 06-January-2011 at 6:54AM
I bought the header bolts from O'Rielly's.
 
When I do straight manifold work, I just use Grade 5 or 8 bolts from the hardware store. The thickest washers they have available and ALWAYS use Anti-Sieze on the threads... NEVER loc-tite!!
Never had a problem. 


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Carl Corey (Moderator/Event Coordinator) Contact ANYTIME!
1976 Ford Elite "Lola Mae"
97 Suzuki Intruder 1400
US Army Retired


Posted By: mcford
Date Posted: 12-January-2011 at 5:03AM
on manifolds, i just go to the hardware store and buy stainless bolts and lock washers.  NEVER have had a problem with clevelands or 429/460's.


Posted By: GranTorinoSport
Date Posted: 12-January-2011 at 12:15PM
Yea, I think I'm going to go with some Lowe's grade-8's.

ARP has header bolts that are drilled for safety wire. Since I know how to install safety wire from my previous aircraft maintenance days, I thought that would be perfect. The only problem was that they only came in lengths for headers (I need a bit longer for the manifolds).

Safety wired bolts would have been the way to go. A little messy, but effective.


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Scott Eklund

Webmaster


Posted By: stanman
Date Posted: 12-January-2011 at 2:41PM
I've seen them use locking header bolts on the Powerblock shows on Spike, but I haven't looked into where they bought them. Probably pretty pricey, I'm a cheapskate.



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