metal prep/cleaner
Printed From: The Ford Torino Page
Category: General Discussion
Forum Name: Auto Body Forum
Forum Description: Discussion of anything related to body, paint and metal work/restoration
URL: https://forum.grantorinosport.org/forum_posts.asp?TID=5247
Printed Date: 18-April-2024 at 10:40AM
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Topic: metal prep/cleaner
Posted By: kversch
Subject: metal prep/cleaner
Date Posted: 22-March-2011 at 1:17PM
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what do you guys recommend for metal cleaner/prep after striping paint and sand blasting ect. before re priming the metal. I know poe 15's marine any cleaner is good stuff anyone recommend anything else.
------------- -kevin- Brown 72 gran torino 351c 2v Black 73 GTS FB 302 Red 73 GTS FB 351C C6 trans 73 GTS FB Parted 73 torino 4dr, 302, FMX parted 97 F250 crew cab 7.3 diesel http://kverschtorino.blogspot.com/ |
Replies:
Posted By: 73 GT Sport 429
Date Posted: 22-March-2011 at 2:29PM
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Self etching primer ------------- Mark original owner-93 Lightning 73 Gran Torino Sport 429 (prodigal son) |
Posted By: Eliteman76
Date Posted: 23-March-2011 at 5:05AM
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Depends on the part being done.
Product matched to application.
Bodywork, bare steel? Yes, etch prime it.
nuts and bolts, I sand blasted, etch primed, and folled up with a quality spray for body bolts.
 Tedious work to restore Ford hardware. I wanted to have the zinc dichromate coating done, but EPA has pretty much outlawed that type of zinc plating...which realy SUCKS.
-------------  Andrew:GTS.ORG admin, '72 Q code 5 speed RestomodPondering: #99Problems |
Posted By: Psquare75
Date Posted: 23-March-2011 at 5:06AM
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I'm fairly sure etch primer is a no no under epoxy primer. ------------- Paul 77 XR7 460/C6/3.00:1 *SOLD* 78 XR7 523/C6/3.5:1 79 F100 460/TKO500/3.25:1 'I also have some left over potatoes-I understand you can generate electricity from them'- Foote500 |
Posted By: Eliteman76
Date Posted: 23-March-2011 at 5:35AM
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Depends on the product line.
Older Dupont Europrime 2k epoxy, we etched first with your standard dupont/nason green etch primer.
I don't know on the newer stuff. I know on the DTM, I did not etch, per the instructions, but I was cleaning bare metal off, doing filler work, and spraying DTM after a complete degreasing. ------------- Andrew:GTS.ORG admin, '72 Q code 5 speed RestomodPondering: #99Problems |
Posted By: kversch
Date Posted: 23-March-2011 at 12:28PM
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thanks for the good info so far guys, but what about the before primer stage. like de-greaser and what not.
------------- -kevin- Brown 72 gran torino 351c 2v Black 73 GTS FB 302 Red 73 GTS FB 351C C6 trans 73 GTS FB Parted 73 torino 4dr, 302, FMX parted 97 F250 crew cab 7.3 diesel http://kverschtorino.blogspot.com/ |
Posted By: lynchster
Date Posted: 23-March-2011 at 1:15PM
So far I've used etching primer underneath all of my epoxy. Haven't come across any issues just yet. ------------- Chuck 72 Gran Torino Sport 13 Taurus SHO "Mr Pig" |
Psquare75 wrote:Posted By: lynchster
Date Posted: 23-March-2011 at 1:20PM
Most prep solvents are similar. I'd buy some non aerosol prep solvent at a bodyshop supply store (not named Pepboys). I'd also suggest latex gloves for handling the bare metal, if it hasn't been suggested already. ------------- Chuck 72 Gran Torino Sport 13 Taurus SHO "Mr Pig" |
Posted By: Eliteman76
Date Posted: 23-March-2011 at 5:03PM
Safety first! Trust me, wear nitrile gloves degreasing. Going to Keystone, or similar autobody jobber suppliers, I bought a gallon of the Keystone private label wax/greaser remover. I just finally refilled my sprayer with the last of the gallon I bought in 2008 from doing the bodywork on the GTS!   I will also tell you, doing block sanding in the Nebraska summer, and sweating...lead me to cut a hole in my house ventilation system, and install a one way valve to let AC or heat into the garage. Nothing worse than sanding and blocking a panel in high humidity, sweating, and putting a palm print in the metal!  ------------- Andrew:GTS.ORG admin, '72 Q code 5 speed RestomodPondering: #99Problems |
Posted By: Billy C
Date Posted: 26-March-2011 at 11:38AM
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I'd say wipe surface down with xylene or something of the sort when in doubt but I have head bad things about thinner and the likes but xylene gets rid of everything!!, wait for it to evap and then paint with a full system of paints. Some systems will recommend etch, some wont. All depends on the chemical and mechanical characteristics of the paint and how each layer works together. I let the engineers smarter than me figure that out. Most systems actually recommend a metal prep for http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/en/ProductHighlights/PaintSystems/~/media/Sherwin-Williams-Files/Files/Product/GOM-Product/Finish%201/application%20guide.ashx - example ...
Why not just replace all bolts with stainless steel!  in bulk, being there are like three different sizes of bolts on the entire car, probably cheaper than sandblasting, paint, and more paint.I started painting my hardware and bolts then I was like "f**k thissss!!!" But kudos to you, for the work done  ------------- -Billy Conturo |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: 27-March-2011 at 11:31AM
| Metal prep or wash is good to use if the metal has been exposed for awhile to clean the metal but wax& grease remover is not recommended on bare metal as it can leave a film so your primer doesn't stick.Most all your Epoxy Primers do NOT require a etch primer as the Epoxy is self etching.If use use a 2K primer self etching primer is recommended to be sprayed on the bare metal first.DTM(direct to Metal) 2k primer does not require etch primer either as it has some properties of Epoxy but ONLY Epoxy Primer is water proof and seals the metal from any moisture so not to rust.DTM &Regular 2K Primers are NOT waterproof and there for absorb water and moisture which can penetrate down to the metal and let it rust under the primer which you won't see until it rusts thru or bubbles up. You can't beat Epoxy primer for long term exposure before painting or even body filler work as it seals the metal.when I do a strip to bare metal resto I get it all stripped or even a panel at a time and spray it with Epoxy Primer then the next day if the panels require body filler I sand and ruff up the epoxy primer but careful not to break thru and apply the filler over the sanded area.Be sure to do all your metal work before priming such as pulling dents or hammer& dolly and reshape the metal plus any welding or patch work.After you smooth out the filler and it is smooth and ready for primer take note if you sanded through the epoxy to metal ause if you have recoat the bodywork area with Epoxy and let it cure till it gets tacky then you can apply a 2K primerover the sanded epoxy primer so you have a primer surfacer to be able to block sand to make sure you have a straight surface to paint on later.Before block sanding the cure 2K apply a guidecoat for blocking the make it in aerosol or powder and it is black in color which will contrast with grey primer and when blocking will sand of or show dark where low spots are that require more filler.Pourable Polly Putty can be use over sanded preimer to fill in any minor low spots or pinholes |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: 27-March-2011 at 11:44AM
| Continued from above-- After all final blocking and filler work reprime the complete panel or vehicle with 2 coats of 2K primer and that wil give you a goos surface for painting.After that final primer application cures you can sand & prep for paint using the appropriate sandpaper grade recommended by the paint you choose to usenThis info will be contained on Product Information Sheets or P Sheets that can be obtained by your supplier or online from the Manufactures website. This has been an educational program of Autobody 101 sponsored by Jeff M of KewlKustomPaint |