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Project TV 2M8O

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72 RS 351 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72 RS 351 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05-June-2023 at 1:03PM
True, a real V8 engine is a lot for a lower end engine stand. I have a cheap one, my first I used in 1980 for my first 351C. But later I bought a HF large four leg type, with extra bracing it is rated to 1000lbs. It was under $100 back in the late 80s, and when HF was located just in CA.
Don
73 Ranchero "Sport 72 front end", floor shift/console, planning EFI 7000+ rpm 351-4V &4R70W
73 Ranchero GT 351C-4V &4R70W for sale later.
92 Lincoln Mark VII SE GTC, OBDII 347/4R70W
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californiajohnny View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-June-2023 at 9:20PM
  #18 on your list... take POR 15 and walk over to the trash and toss it inWink i can see in your pic where you removed the sound deadener and it just peeled off! just blowing dust off of mike's frame... the por 15 just blew off Shocked the more i see where its been used to more im not impressed with itOuch
 i prefer the SEM rust shield... has UV inhibitors in it, can be brushed or sprayed, adheres much better, works great for a quick blackout for trunks and interior metal structure!
 actually i'd spray raptorliner on the floor pan... nice texture, and tough, and a nice moister barrier too, helps a little with heat barrier and sound deadening, not a lot but every little bit helpsWink
(word of advice... mask everything before you spray it even if its just sheets or blankets or plastic to cover the stuff to keep the overspray offWink)
JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE
74 VETTE CUSTOM
90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED
77 CELICA CUSTOM
75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED
79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED
75 VEGA V6 5 SPD
70 CHEV C10 P/U
68 MUSTANG FB CONVERSION
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TV 2M8O View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TV 2M8O Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07-June-2023 at 11:28PM
Originally posted by californiajohnny californiajohnny wrote:

  #18 on your list... take POR 15 and walk over to the trash and toss it inWink i can see in your pic where you removed the sound deadener and it just peeled off! just blowing dust off of mike's frame... the por 15 just blew off Shocked the more i see where its been used to more im not impressed with itOuch

CJ, the POR-15 was only compromised where the SUPER CLEAN had leaked out. What did however peel/blow off was the top coat of Eastwood Chassis Black where I didn't prep the POR-15 properly for the top coat.

I'm a firm believer in POR-15 after years ago I got a sample of it and painted a 11ga piece of steel on both side with a brush and then when it dried the stuff was glass smooth. Then to torture test it, I bent the piece back and forth until it broke along the bend line and THE POR-15 HAD NOT FLAKED OFF!! I was sold on that stuff ever since.

After blasting and cleaning the underside/chassis of my car, I painted it with two coats of POR-15 followed up with two coats of Eastwood Satin Chassis Black. When I get under the car in a few weeks to begin the reclean of the underside of the car, I'll see how well that application held up....

TV 2M8O OUT
JOE
1976 Gran Torino S&H season 2-4 Clone
Project Blog: http://tv2m8o.blogspot.com/
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72 RS 351 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72 RS 351 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08-June-2023 at 1:22PM
Mixing different coatings, and brands, is as important as the various chemicals alone. I used the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator on 3/4 of the frame of my 99 Explorer, and a good bit of it let go without much help from chemicals, sun, or forces. I've used enough of that on 2-3 projects to think the POR 15 is better. I've only used POR 15 once, a friend's truck on a few parts like control arms and floor boards.

They are both easy to apply, but how to prepare each for coating over them is much different. I hope the POR 15 takes top coating better also than the Eastwood.

The one product Eastwood makes that I love in that genre is the Rust Dissolver. I used it long before, when it was called Oxysolv or something like that, I had a gallon. It is water thin, it applies easily by spraying or soaking, I loved that it seeps into seams, it wicks into any seam or crack, such as under the floor or rockers, getting into the seams where rust begins. It can be painted over after a couple of hours, and being wiped down like prep solvent for pre-paint prep.

I'm sure SEM is great too for what they make, I hope to learn more about all of them near future with my projects.
Don
73 Ranchero "Sport 72 front end", floor shift/console, planning EFI 7000+ rpm 351-4V &4R70W
73 Ranchero GT 351C-4V &4R70W for sale later.
92 Lincoln Mark VII SE GTC, OBDII 347/4R70W
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TV 2M8O View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TV 2M8O Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-June-2023 at 2:48AM
Don, for the chassis components and undercarriage of the car, I sandblasted everything first, then cleaned with the POR-15 Metal Prep, shot the POR-15 black and then while it was still slightly tacky, top coated the POR-15 with the first (of three) coat of Eastwood Satin Chassis Black. THAT'S the secret for getting paint to stick to the POR-15 without having to scuff the cured paint for additional coats. Once POR-15 dries, NOTHING will adhere to it properly!

That's the problem I ran into on the interior sheetmetal of my build. I painted all the interior metalwork with POR-15 and then allowed it to dry because I hadn't planned on applying a top coat. After seeing how nice the underside and suspension pieces turned out, that's when I decided to apply a coat of Chassis Black.

I read where someone had shot the POR-15 with a wet coat of lacquer thinner to soften it and then apply the top coat. I had never used a paint gun in my life, so needless to say I was in over my head from the start! Well I shot a wet coat of thinner onto everything thing and had the black ready to go once I had that applied, but the air was set a bit too high on the line to the gun so the paint was atomized to the point that it was dry by the time it got to the car so it did not adhere properly. After seeing how "flat" the finish was and a bit of digging, I figured out my mistakes and applied a second coat of the Chassis Black.... well as they say you finish coat is only as good as your prep work, so needless to say it was doomed to failure!!

So now I will get the sheetmetal cleaned back up and then scuff it really well with ScotchBrite pads to not only get the remaining loose paint off but to also put a tooth to the POR-15 so my next attempt at top coating the interior metal will be a bit more successful!

LIVE AND LEARN Ouch

TV 2M8O OUT
JOE
1976 Gran Torino S&H season 2-4 Clone
Project Blog: http://tv2m8o.blogspot.com/
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72 RS 351 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10-June-2023 at 11:08AM
Thanks for any of the knowledge you learned, it helps someone with their projects from reading it. I've learned just a tiny amount from being around body shops and helping friends with their painting. So yes I'm poised to make many of the same mistakes as others do, but I hope I remember enough to select the best products, the right steps etc.
Don
73 Ranchero "Sport 72 front end", floor shift/console, planning EFI 7000+ rpm 351-4V &4R70W
73 Ranchero GT 351C-4V &4R70W for sale later.
92 Lincoln Mark VII SE GTC, OBDII 347/4R70W
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TV 2M8O View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TV 2M8O Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18-June-2023 at 9:10AM
I worked on my Fairlane wagon this weekend so there was no Torino progress, but I did get the trunk cleaned up last weekend....


















TV 2M8O OUT
JOE
1976 Gran Torino S&H season 2-4 Clone
Project Blog: http://tv2m8o.blogspot.com/
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote handsofstone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-June-2023 at 5:25PM
Looking good again.
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TV 2M8O View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TV 2M8O Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02-July-2023 at 1:34AM
Well after a couple non-productive weekends tinkering with my wagon, FINALLY some Tomato progress.... got her back up in the air and the wheels off so I can get under her and clean up the underside and suspension.
















































 

So next weekend I will get started cleaning her up.... hopefully things will clean up as nicely as the top side did!!


Edited by TV 2M8O - 02-July-2023 at 2:02AM

TV 2M8O OUT
JOE
1976 Gran Torino S&H season 2-4 Clone
Project Blog: http://tv2m8o.blogspot.com/
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TV 2M8O View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TV 2M8O Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-September-2023 at 1:02AM
Well has been a very UNPRODUCTIVE two months for the Torino, but I did get my Fairlane wagon and my Fiero dusted off and driving again.

Attended a local cars & coffee event yesterday morning in the wagon before heading to the dealership to meet with another bodyshop about taking on the Tomato and getting her colors applied like I want. I met with another shop the previous Saturday, so once I get the numbers back from the second shop, I'll request a shop tour of both facilities and examples of their work to see which one I feel most comfortable turning the car over to.

FINGERS CROSSED!!

TV 2M8O OUT
JOE
1976 Gran Torino S&H season 2-4 Clone
Project Blog: http://tv2m8o.blogspot.com/
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote spriegel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17-September-2023 at 3:12AM
Joe,

Keep at it, you can view the two months as a recharge.

Sounds promising with looking at new body shops.  Good idea to preview them first to see their work and how they operate.

Good luck,

Chris
Chris
Fairview, PA
'1973 Ford Gran Torino
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