repainting & replacing a door |
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rancheromac
Member Joined: 12-August-2013 Location: IOWA Status: Offline Points: 58 |
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Posted: 13-June-2019 at 7:27AM |
not on my ranchero but a 2003 Mercury. used door is pristine but wrong color. I used to be a bodyman back in 70 & 80's, but am wondering about newer primer sealers available to put on new door. I was thinking of sanding w/ 320 wet and a one coat of a primer/sealer before paint ? I am painting new door in & out before hanging. new door white, color is red metallic. it is clearcoat, do they still make an acrylic enamel one step, or do I need to use paint and clearcoat system ? thanks for any advise
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Rockatansky
Senior Member Joined: 30-July-2010 Location: On The Road Status: Offline Points: 6072 |
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i've never been a body man & i didn't even stay at a Holiday Inn last night but a 15 yr old car is going to have some degree of fade that will have to be either matched or blended, and using a different paint system will likely guarantee that it stands out from a distance. pretty sure you should be able to scuff & spray color right onto the OEM white ... you should only need primer to build thickness if you feathered out a surface defect and sealer if you take it down to bare metal? Edited by Rockatansky - 13-June-2019 at 12:45PM |
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72 GT Ute
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72FordGTS
Admin Group GTS.org Admin Joined: 06-September-2005 Location: Ontario, Canada Status: Offline Points: 5846 |
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I'd agree with what Rock said the above but like him I am no body man. I know most paint supply shops can scan how paint to help compensate for fade. But it seems with metallic paints it's really hard to match perfectly. I had the box side on my 11 year old truck repainted last year and it was pretty darn close to matching. Most people don't notice but if you look you can see the slight difference. It's good enough for a daily driver.
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Vince
1972 Ford GTS Sportsroof - Survivor, One Family car GTS.org Admin |
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californiajohnny
Moderator Group Joined: 05-October-2013 Location: winlock, wa Status: Offline Points: 14609 |
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if the white paint is good, you can sand it with 320 and shoot the maroon over it, more than likely it's a 2 stage paint, they still offer single stage paint but probably not in the color you need.
metallics aren't too bad to paint... just be sure your gun is clean and spraying evenly! don't put it on too heavy or too much overlap, you don't want any "tiger striping"!!! do your 1st coat light and side to side, do the 2nd coat perpendicular to the first like top to bottom, then the 3dr side to side again, once it looks even and not transparent, you can use the last amount of paint for another coat mixing in more reducer to thin it down a lot , then with the gun a foot or two away just lightly fog on the thin metallic mixture over the final coat while it's still wet kinda like an overspray dusting to blend the metallic evenly then add your coats of clear like normal, or no clear if you do it in single stage... |
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JOHN
74 GRAN TORINO S&H CLONE 74 VETTE CUSTOM 90 S10 BLAZER 4X4 LIFTED 77 CELICA CUSTOM 75 V8 MONZA SUPERCHARGED 79 COURIER VERT. SLAMMED 75 VEGA V6 5 SPD 70 CHEV C10 P/U 68 MUSTANG FB CONVERSION |
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gregaba
Member Joined: 02-December-2012 Location: Oklahoma Status: Offline Points: 108 |
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Be careful when you order your paint. If you buy a polyurethane sealer or top coat it will have isocynates Sp? in it. This requires an outside dedicated air supply. It is extremely dangerous. I went though the PPG certified paint course and this was the most talked about subject by the instructors. Be sure to read the data sheet on any paint product you buy so you will be aware of what you have. Isocynites are cyanide and if you breath it in it can cause death. It will even get in your blood stream from your eyes and skin. Greg. |
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Greg
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rancheromac
Member Joined: 12-August-2013 Location: IOWA Status: Offline Points: 58 |
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Due to lady hitting my back door a few years ago, that entire side was repainted. air pressure at gun is probably the key to match ? not sure im comfortable just scuffing? door is completely stripped down. where . plan on a wax & grease remover as 1st step. any advise of scuffing , scotchbrite 320 ? thank you
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gregaba
Member Joined: 02-December-2012 Location: Oklahoma Status: Offline Points: 108 |
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I would wet or dry with 600 grit [after using your wax and grease remover]. Than scuff with scotch brite and then use a quality sealer. Then use the 600 on the sealer and shoot your color. If you go by the time window [can be anywhere from 15 minutes to 1 hour-will be in the data sheet or instructions]you can shoot your clear without sanding your color but if for some reason you miss it then you should [not required] hit the color with the 600 again. The big problem is matching the paint and I have found that it is very hard to get a match with old paint and new but you should be able to get it close enough for a 10 footer. Hope this helps Greg
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Greg
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