Seized Distributor

My 400 has had a seized distributor for a while no. It pings badly even with premium. Last time I checked it was something like 22 BTDC base and 46 total timing, so no wonder it's so bad.

Anyone have any tricks at freeing up the distributor? I have soaked it over the winter with penetrating oil, I have tried strap wrenchs, heat from a propane torch and it's solid as a rock.

Is it possible to get this thing out without breaking it?

I used sea foam deep creep penetrating oil and a big hammer .I broke the distributor but it came out  

Penetrating oil, strap wrench, BIG hammer. I had one seized on a 351W and generally battered it into submission with lateral hammer strikes on the distributor (I think I was whacking it at the vacuum advance) and whacking on the strap wrench too. Just keep all the force lateral. It won't break in half top to bottom, but bits will definitely fly off. LOL

When I did mine I soaked it down for a week then I worked with a hammer and punch until it moved.It came out in one peice but I broke part of the upper housing.

I want to avoid having to remove the pan all together. I am just trying to keep the car running decently until I have the funds to build the engine. That said, the engine runs top notch other than the pinging.

How do you adjust the dwell to bring the timing closer?

The later the points open, the later the spark comes and retards the timing. The earlier the points open the sooner the spark comes and advances the timing. I would think it was set at one time and the points wore or burnt somewhat changing your dwell and thus timing.
Should not take much adjustment and don't do a major change.



Edited by Robbdtme - 03-October-2012 at 5:19PM

Rockatansky wrote: distributor degrees are 1/2 of crank degrees, so a 4* change at the dizzy makes 8* at the crank   so a smaller gap will cause the rubbing block to actuate the points later in reference to crank position... ?

Yep.
If you have some feeler gauges check the gap then narrow it slightly not much then check the timing again. Sure you know have it warmed up at about 600 rpm and have the vacuum advance line pulled off the dizzy when checking.

I had a 400 in a 73 Ranchero and they did have higher compression back then than the other engines so better fuel is a must,Mine would like to diesel a bit on shut down with cheap gas. If you would like take a windex type spray bottle with some water in it then after the engine is warm rev it some and spray a little  water down the carb, It will clean out carbon build up. You will be surprised at the crap that will blow through the exhaust.


Edited by Robbdtme - 04-October-2012 at 5:30AM

Thanks guys, I will play around with it a bit see if I can improve the timing a bit. Maybe that will be enough to get me by until I tear down the engine.

That makes really good sense. The alum will contract faster than the block. That canned duster spray stuff they have if you hold the can upside down really gets cold.

Vince I guess you got the dizzy out one way or another?

hey 2 years on this side & I don't think anything's gonna get done