Sport scoop graft & 72 Sport hood reskin |
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Eliteman76
Admin Group Joined: 20-March-2006 Location: Nebraska, USA Status: Offline Points: 5044 |
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Jeff...nice way to piece this thread together.
Personally...I am still under the basic assumption one of the best methods for sectioning these hoods is to cut the skin all the way through to the back edge of the hood, and pop the 4 spot welds, and then you are not welding the back seam of the hood. I am not going to hijack this thread with mine. I do have a video clip however to show the fun of welding. If you were dedicated to this, and had a free weekend, I would think you can get this knocked out in 2 days, starting with a hood that was clean. I had a few days into mine, mainly because I was a bit fuzzy since I had done the 72 GTS grafe onto my old 76 Elite hood. Honestly, I think modifying the bracing took as much if not more time to do. One of the other members here has the hood I modified. My thing I can't stress enough, is like what Jeff said: GO SLOWLY WHEN WELDING. Even while I was doing very short, small spot weld bursts, I still managed to wave the metal a little bit. I wanted to try hammer welding a little bit to shrink the metal, but the bracing was a bit of an issue. |
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Andrew:GTS.ORG admin, '72 Q code 5 speed Restomod
Pondering: #99Problems |
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yes I plan on removing the skin to the back edge and unfolding it as I bought a pair of door skin removal pliers from Harbor Freight.I'm gonna try to remove the complete skin if I can as the replacement hood I have has some rust on the skin at the back,so if I can remove the skine from my original hood successfully I ill use the scoop out of the replacement hood and use the brace section from my original hood to make this hood graft and use he good brace and skin to make a good hood for my car with no rust.Also if i'm successful I can coat the back side of the bracing with POR 15 and also the area on the skin under the brace and it will never rust again.
I don't think anybody has re-skinned a 72 Sport hood yet,so I might be the first to do it
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ok here are the butt weld clamps and you use them to hold the joint of the metal even with a .040 gap,insures good penetration and wil require minimal grainding if you do a good weld job. I picked them up from Harbor Frieght in a pack of 8 for $8 so they are a buck a piece but you can only buy them in a Harbor Frieght store,they are not sold online so if you need some and don't have a F store near you PM me and I can pick some up and ship them to you for the cost of the clamps and shipping. Eastwood sell's them too,but the are $30 for 4 and not worth it as the HF are exactly the same and you get twice the clamps and 1/4 of the price. Here is a photo from Eastwood how they work then I took 2 envelopes and put them together but the gap is bigger as it is not metal but just to show you. here are the HF clamps __________________
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robot9000
Senior Member Joined: 02-September-2011 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 505 |
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Question on the clamps, does the inside piece turn and pull out or does it unscrew and fall into the area behind your weld?
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the metal cross bar pulls out after you loosen the wing nut.
you have to have access to the inside or back of panel to install them
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Eliteman76
Admin Group Joined: 20-March-2006 Location: Nebraska, USA Status: Offline Points: 5044 |
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Nice find on the clamps. As an alternative, I picked up some welding magnets at Harbor Freight that I used on my hood conversion.
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Andrew:GTS.ORG admin, '72 Q code 5 speed Restomod
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unlovedford
Senior Member Joined: 17-December-2010 Location: Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 10142 |
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The magnets also help to dissapate heat as a bonus.
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Joe
1972 Mom's Squire Wagon 1972 Torino Wagon 1976 Torino 1968 Cougar XR7-First batch 1972 Torino 460 1989 BroncoII/Jeeps/Titanimous Popeye and Brutus (Rams) |
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yes that is why i'm getting these
4 and 8 inch magnetic Copper Butt-Weld Backer set |
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sorry progress has been really slow as I don't have a garage and it rained the weekend before and this past weekend it was nice but I got sick Friday and was really sick both Sat & sun so i couldn't do anything.
Hopefully Sunday the 20th I can make some progress weather permitting as the 19th i'm planning on a car show weather permitting
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ok,been battling a cold with nasal congestion real bad for 2 + weeks and can't shake it but managed to get the Sport hood off my car so I can get the middle brace section I need for the scoop graft.
I bought from Harbor Freight in Florida some door skin removal pliers in hopes that I could remove the skin off my original hood as the replacement hood has some rust on the back edge corners but the bracing is solid.The skin on my original hood was garbage except for the middle section which is good as that is needed for the scoop graft. First I drilled out the spot welds around the edge of the hood and around the scoop opening then I got out the door skin pliers and peeled back the inside lip so I could get the bracing off. I took a cut off wheel and cut the bracing to where I wanted to save to section into the 73 hood I cut it bigger then needed and will trim it down later. I then had to carefully pop the bracing loose ad work all the area's where the skin is glued to the bracing as not to dent or damage the skin.I have a seam buster tool for separating skins and put that between the bracing & skin and carefully hammered it into what they most likely used was seam sealer of some sort.I was able to get the perimeter bracing off which was what was really rotted on the hood then I worked on getting the center bracing off so not to bend or damage either the bracing or the skin so I took my time till it popped loose. I will now use the middle scoop skin section from the replacement hood and rebuild the 72 hood for my car with the original skin with the replacement hood's bracing so I have 2 hoods that need to be taken apart. first one is taken apart. This will also give me the opportunity to clean all the surface rust on the back side off the hood skin where the bracing is to keep it from rotting out in the future. I will lightly go over the inside of the hood skin with a wire wheel to clean off the loose scale then I will blast the edged clean that get folded over and the inside of the skin will get treated with muriatic acid to remove as much of the surface rust as possible then paint the inside of the hood skin with POR 15 to keep it rusting again. Once I get the other hood taken apart I will clean up the back side of the bracing and treat it also and coat the backside with POR 15 and will also do the same to the hood graft sections so they are protected before welding them onto the 73 hood. here is the results hood before edge of lip peeled back outer bracing removed surface rust on skin that was covered by bracing middle section of bracing removed for scoop graft skin with all the bracing removed original hood skin
Edited by 72 GTS 429 - 28-May-2012 at 1:26PM |
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I tell you what this is the best way to restore a Sport hood as no matter if you have a nice looking hood there is still all that bare metal underneath that has surface rust and with splitting it apart I can treat all the surface rust and coat the inside of the skin and bracing with POR 15 then glue it back together with dampning material on the braces,fold the edge of the skin back over and hammer and dolly the edges, then plug weld the holes up from drilling out the spot welds and probable need a skim of poly putty along the outer edge and the lip on the inside to make it pretty but it will last alot longer this way and know the hood won't rust out later and have to find another replacement.
It's alot of work but in the end will be worth it.just like removing the top of the cowl and fixing any rust issues then coat the inside with POR 15 so it don't rot out again. I plan on doin that on the GTS even if it seems solid i want to make sure it don't rust again as they never got any primer's on the underneath.Seems like the Gran Torino bodies were all sprayed and not dipped in primer so that is why thy rust out.Even if they did dip them the paint was always sprayed and that is what gives you the protection as the primer can break down in time as they didn't use epoxy back then as everything was lacquer based so anything with just primer rusted after so many years and why the cars have so many rust issues unless they came from a dry state out west like Arizona,Nevada,New Mexico and some places in California
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I will be doing the 72 scoop graft onto the 73-76 hood first but have to dissect the 2 72 Sport hoods as I will be using the center bracing from my original hood and the center hood scoop skin from the replacement hood. I will then clean up the back side of the two pieces used for the graft and get them treated and coated with POR 15 and then start all the cutting of the 73 hood.
I'm building the hood for John aka 75GranMan who did the S&H paint job on his 2M dark red Gran Torino so when it's finished and he picks it up he will take it to his paint and body guy and have it painted red to match his car. Just wanted to let John know his hood comes first as it will take me awhile to clean up all the parts for the 72 Sport hood reskin project and want to get his done first as he is paying me to do it but have to cut the 2 hoods to get the parts I need for his and keep the original skin for my car
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75GranMan
Senior Member Joined: 05-April-2011 Location: Colchester, CT Status: Offline Points: 1225 |
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Jeff,it was good to talk to you today.Sorry about the turn of events with the job situation.glad you had a good time at carlisle,I hope to get there oneday.I know as you said you may be headed to Mich,for work.just wanted to say again,don't feel you have to rush the finish on this project,Im not in a rush for the hood.but I'm excited for this car coming together.keep the photo's coming on the progress.
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John 75Gran Torino 4spd
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