INFO: 65 Mustang Floor Pans Work on 1972+ Torinos

Did you use the left pan on the right and vice versa as mentioned above?

Chopper fabricated a hybrid seat brace from factory (over the drive tunnel) and new as I’m using 69 Mach 1 seats…you can use the factory brace you just have to set the pans to the lower height of the brace…

hogfiddles wrote: RacerJames wrote: This is very cool! Made me wonder if maybe the '79 and up LTD/Crown Vic floors would work as well? I bet you’ll be the first to know, and report how to do it ;) Dfox

This is very cool!

Thanks for these pics. I might have ordered those ridiculous Torino patch panels sold everywhere but this seems much better.

Might as well jump on the bandwagon and second that…however I used 71-73 as they don’t have the holes for the seats to bolt through so one less thing to weld up or plug



Full left and right pans were used which basically dropped straight in and then stitched into the footwell

you need to re- install the seat-rail supports that go across the top of the floorpan.

Regul8r 2 wrote: californiajohnny wrote: yes this is the thread i was referring to! carl, can you throw a sticky on this!!!   DONE

good because you know how often this subject comes up, plus it may be easier for new guys to find!

yes this is the thread i was referring to! carl, can you throw a sticky on this!!!

I am going to be doing this on my Ranchero thanks to this thread.

I bought my panels from CJ Pony Parts.

http://www.cjponyparts.com/XFLP1L/p/XFLP1L/?utm_source=Pony&utm_medium=Email&utm_campaign=OrderConfirmation&lac_guid=550ffb38-4112-e611-be9f-2c59e547f8d7

I bought the premium since they have a bit more material at the rear. And they are 19 gauge, the other ones didn't have a gauge listed. Might be overkill and most who have experience probably won't need the extra material but I figured I better get as big a piece as possible. Not sure if it was worth the extra $30 or not though. I bought them as a pair, free shipping. Free shipping from them either way you buy.
They also sell the under the seat part mentioned above somewhere, I may try those or just see what I can make with some metal I have. At $30 something each side though I am leaning towards making patches instead.

I am going to be doing it with the seat bracket still on the car. Mine needs repaired on the inner rear seat bolt hole areas, both sides, but I am not a welder and so I want to leave as much structural as I can intact. I can see how that may make part of this harder, but at least I won't have to worry about the bracket being wrong. That part holds the seats and thus the people, so it needs to be solid. I plan on removing the floor pans, fixing the brackets, then doing the new pans. I weigh in at about 305, so I am a bit concerned.

This will be a real learning experience. I've done a very little welding in a one evening class where we had to share the welder.

I will post in my project thread when I start. Going to be a bit, I forgot I am going to need to come up with an extension cord for the welder since my Ranchero is too far from an outlet. I will probably have to make one out of Romex, just don't tell anyone.
I hadn't planned on needing to use the welder when I took the front end apart.
But at  least it is far enough from the house to avoid burning it down.

Thanks,
Russ


Edited by russosborne - 13-May-2016 at 7:54PM

He was never going to use the original type of seats, seat brackets or cross brackets/braces from the beginning. He was not concerned with the stock seat mounts with the custom seats and mounts he is going to use. He laid the seat bracket back on to see how it fit after his weld in. The stock bracket is raised up over an inch the way he welded it in.
But, he did some looking and it appears that if you left the bracket/brace in place, cut the rotted floor board out and then slipped the mustang panel in under the bracket then welded it to the bracket, you should be able to form the panel to meet the existing floor on the sides.

Edited by dave302 - 20-February-2016 at 5:10PM

Then he had cut out the rusted area.