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Where to Cut Floor Pans?

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r9b2 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 21-September-2021 at 12:44PM
Hi all, just curious on where I should start on my '73 Base's floors.  As you can see in picture one, there is a crossmember that goes across the mid(?) section of the floorpan.  Can I cut that at the ends, place my new floorpan on, then weld everything back in place?  Basically, it looks like the crossmember is in near perfect shape, while the floorpan rusted all the way through underneath.

What exactly should be my plan of attack?  Thank you in advance.  P.S. I am a newbie welder


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote r9b2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21-September-2021 at 1:31PM
Nevermind, I think I got my own answer in the thread about using Mustang floor pans.  Says you only need that cross support if you plan on using the original seat, which I don't intend on doing. Wacko
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kychevyguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-September-2021 at 12:38AM
Good luck. Measure, plan it out, mark everything, re-measure.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-September-2021 at 6:54AM
i've cut the pans leaving about 1/2" of the edge of the pan still attached to the rocker then trim the new pan to fit and rest on that lip Wink
JOHN
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Bird Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-September-2021 at 7:48AM
DO NOT CUT that black plastic cover running under the driver seat. That hides your wiring for the back of the car.
"What we do in full frontal view, is more honest than your cleaned-up mind."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote r9b2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-September-2021 at 9:37AM
Thank you everyone, duly noted!  Now to shop welders.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hogfiddles Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-September-2021 at 9:43AM
I have a Hobart handler 135.(I also have my grandfathers Lincoln arc welder)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hogfiddles Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-September-2021 at 10:17AM
Originally posted by californiajohnny californiajohnny wrote:

i've cut the pans leaving about 1/2" of the edge of the pan still attached to the rocker then trim the new pan to fit and rest on that lip Wink
Does that mean the floor then sits just that gauge-thickness higher than original? The thought doesn’t bother me, I’d just want to know if there’s anything else that needs to be considered then for fitment of anything afterward.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote californiajohnny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-September-2021 at 12:39PM
its only 18 ga so it shouldn't affect anything really
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hogfiddles Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-September-2021 at 2:57PM
Originally posted by californiajohnny californiajohnny wrote:

its only 18 ga so it shouldn't affect anything really
just making sure of that, as I know some fits are critical.  I’ve thought a lot about just going on top at that point—in my mind it seemed raising the floor by only that little would get lost in seam-sealer anyway, but wanted to make sure it wouldn’t cause rear seat issues with fastening points or anything.

I figured there’s plenty of leeway, otherwise.

Thanks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockatansky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22-September-2021 at 3:07PM
if you remove the seat support structure and don't re-install it because you're going to use different seats / tracks / mounts, then you still need to fabricate a similar structure to secure the new seats to. it is never advised to bolt seats directly to only floor pan metal. i made some adapters that bolt to the original mounting points to secure a pair of seats from a Laser







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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Big Bird Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23-September-2021 at 11:29AM
^^^^ Yes! There needs to be support for the seats besides the sheet metal!^^^^
"What we do in full frontal view, is more honest than your cleaned-up mind."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote r9b2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23-September-2021 at 2:07PM
Originally posted by Rockatansky Rockatansky wrote:

if you remove the seat support structure and don't re-install it because you're going to use different seats / tracks / mounts, then you still need to fabricate a similar structure to secure the new seats to. it is never advised to bolt seats directly to only floor pan metal. i made some adapters that bolt to the original mounting points to secure a pair of seats from a Laser


What would be the best way to fabricate the mounts?  Mine was a bench seat where the bolts were all rusty anyway, and I have those '65+ Mustang floor pans arriving anyway, and I plan on just buying the ProCar bucket seats and brackets from Summit Racing.

I guess my question is just this: I shouldn't just bolt down the Procar seat bracket straight onto the new Mustang floorpan when it's installed?

Sorry for the questioning! I tend to overthink things.
1973 Ford Torino 2D Formal Top Project
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