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Where to Mount DuraSpark Ignition Module?
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Greg73Oregon View Drop Down
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    Posted: 12-April-2021 at 4:00AM
I have a 1973 Gran Torino with a 351W.  I'm installing a late model Ford DuraSpark distributor & module.
I could mount the ignition module just about anywhere (as long as it's away from a heat source), but I'd like to mount it where the later years were mounted. Even the LTD's or Cougar's location.
Any help is appreciated!

FYI: I work in electronics, so install is pretty straight forward.  I'm using the "Blue Connector" module.  I replaced the single pole "I" starter solenoid with a newer two pole style "S" & "I".  The "S" connects to the white ignition start retard line on the module.
Instead of wiring/tapping into the starter switch (Start & Run) wires, I connected the ignition coil wires to a 12V relay coil & grounded the other side.  When energized, the relay connects the battery via a fuse to the ignition coil (+) & the red wire on the ignition module.
During "Start" the relay gets full +12V.  In run, the relay gets around 9V.  Relays are spec'd at capture voltage and release voltage.  Once energized, the relay coil will hold until 5V or even a little less.
Because I'm using an after-market coil (Jegs), I don't need to use a resistor or the factory resistor wire.



Edited by Greg73Oregon - 13-April-2021 at 4:14AM
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hogfiddles View Drop Down
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on the inner fender is easiest. I believe my ‘76 had it on top of the driver side inner fender
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Greg73Oregon View Drop Down
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Was it in the center, or more towards the front of the car?
Thanks.
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hogfiddles View Drop Down
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kind of on the upper area of the front slope, slightly off-center toward the engine, AND tilted at angle (not parallel to fender edge or anything else in particular.
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Greg73Oregon View Drop Down
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I can visualize.  The module has three mounting points, and the fender has many compound angles & slopes.  Thanks.
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1973gts View Drop Down
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This is where mine was when I got it, doesn't lie completely flat but is pretty stable.                                                                                                                                                                                            
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Rockatansky View Drop Down
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you can cut some wafers of 3/8" hose to use as vibration isolators / levelers to go between the module and the inner tub Wink
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That was where it was on my 76 Elite before I went aftermarket. Which I mounted centered on the fender housing. ( and looks better in my opinion)
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That's fantastic!  Thanks! Thumbs Up
I think Ford mounted there, because my understanding is that the modules are sensitive to heat.
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a couple of the 74's i parted out had it mounted flat where the connectors are in dave's pic...
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I was looking at that location, but there doesn't seem to be a spot that I can get the three mounting holes lined up, and not overhanging towards the radiator.  Question
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I'll double check mine when I get back out to the garage later today but I think it was mounted with only the two top screws.  I think I may go with Rock's suggestion and put some kind of rubber backing behind the module for the possible vibration issue.
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1973gts View Drop Down
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Just checked and no bottom screw is in it, no hole on the inner fender for it either, it's feels pretty solid but I still might do what Rock suggested and use some rubber washers between the module and fender.
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Have you noticed what lots of people are doing with their later model Mustangs? I'm guessing that it's a trend for lots of cars. They are moving as much of the wiring and under hood devices, out of sight in the fenders, outboard of the inner surfaces. Many are filling the holes with welded steel pieces, and grinding it all smooth, to repaint etc. I'll say it looks very good, but I'd consider that kind of project for a last thought for a car project. I'd make it all functional and reliable first.
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Originally posted by 72 RS 351 72 RS 351 wrote:

Have you noticed what lots of people are doing with their later model Mustangs? I'm guessing that it's a trend for lots of cars. They are moving as much of the wiring and under hood devices, out of sight in the fenders, outboard of the inner surfaces. Many are filling the holes with welded steel pieces, and grinding it all smooth, to repaint etc. I'll say it looks very good, but I'd consider that kind of project for a last thought for a car project. I'd make it all functional and reliable first.

Yes, looks very clean, but I'm assuming any maintenance requires removal of the fender, especially on our cars.  As prone as the ignition modules are to failure, that could be a pain.
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72 RS 351 View Drop Down
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Yes, I would never suggest that for the devices like the ignition module which might be common to have to get to.
Don
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If it stops working, I'll take out the guts and install a GM HEI module. I did that on a '70 Maverick.
The only drawback is that there isn't a timing retard during engine cranking.
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Originally posted by Greg73Oregon Greg73Oregon wrote:

If it stops working, I'll take out the guts and install a GM HEI module. I did that on a '70 Maverick.
The only drawback is that there isn't a timing retard during engine cranking.

Todd (aquartlow) used a 5-pin HEI module to get the retarded timing during cranking.

You can see his setup in this thread here:
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Originally posted by Greg73Oregon Greg73Oregon wrote:

If it stops working, I'll take out the guts and install a GM HEI module. I did that on a '70 Maverick.
The only drawback is that there isn't a timing retard during engine cranking.
...And then the G.M. HEI module fails anyway. Not even as reliable than the Duraspark unit.
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Originally posted by Big Bird Big Bird wrote:

...And then the G.M. HEI module fails anyway. Not even as reliable than the Duraspark unit.


I don't know if I agree.  I am not saying the HEI is more reliable than DuraSpark, but I have owned a lot of GM HEI cars over the years and have only  had one module failure (it was a newer ESC distributor, not the old 4-pin style).  Like the DuraSpark, a lot of the aftermarket HEI modules are junk, but the AC/Delco modules always held up well in my experience.  

The advantage to HEI over DuraSpark is that HEI has dynamic dwell and also has more ignition energy, especially compared the the common blue strand.  Also, it seems way easier today to get a quality HEI module compared to finding a quality DuraSpark module.  YMMV.
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A lot of the G.M. cars I owned had a spare HEI module in the glove box.
My Thunderbird had the original Duraspark box fail only because the inner fender rotted thru behind it.
The first replacement box (aftermarket Chinese part) looked normal but had a HEI module inside.
Lasted a couple years. Current box is a junkyard part od unknown mileage and no problems.
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Update:  Mounted on the wheel well where 73 GTS showed in his picture.  I had a real hard time locating the connector that plugs into the distributor.  From a local "Pick-a-Part", I scavenged most of the wiring out of an'80's Ranger.
Works like a champ! Since I installed a relay (powered by the existing coil wire), and ran the relay input directly to 12V, and the output directly to the coil & module; I had a problem that the engine wouldn't shut off.  There was enough leakage voltage coming back from the charging circuit to the ALT dash light to keep the relay closed.
Solution: installed a diode in the regulator "I" terminal wire going to the dash light.  Problem solved.
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put it where the current mount is, or where current wires tell you . why you moving it ? also forget that HEI chevy crap !
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???
Mine was a points system. I gathered all the parts to switch to a Duraspark.  I mounted where others had indicated theirs were (factory) mounted.
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